Grip and Barrel Shroud

■ he pistol grip can be made from any I close-grained hardwood, including

■ walnut, cherry, myrtle, maple, and I numerous others. Use a piece that is

^^ fairly straight grained, and avoid brittle wood that will split or crack easily. The grip blank should be at least 11/2 inches thick, 3

inches wide, and 4 1/2 inches long.

Drill a hole, 1/4 inch in diameter, lengthwise through the grip blank. This is located 1 3/4 inches back from the top front edge and centered in the width of the blank. It is important that this hole be perpendicular to the top side, so take care to make it so. The hole is counterbored to a depth of 1 inch at the bottom to accept the bolt bead.

The bolt, 4 1/2 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter with 28 threads per inch, is available at most hardware stores. It will require a screwdriver slot cut across the head. This can be done with a hacksaw or hand grinder. Insert the bolt and attach the grip to the frame. If the trigger guard is already in place it will be ncccssary to inlet the rear side into the wood using a narrow wood chisel. A channel, or slot, should be formed at the top to allow the grip to extend up over the sides of the lower receiver. This can be done with the milling machine, using a 3/8-inch ball cutter to form the radius at each side. It can also be done by carefully marking the outline and making parallel saw cuts to the required depth, as close together as possible. Whatever surplus wood remains can be removed with rasps or files and a sharp wood chisel. This slotted portion should conform closely to the contour of the frame.

By giving the metal parts a thin coating of lipstick or other nondrying marking material and pushing them as far as they will go into the wood, you can easily detect high spots to be removed through traces of the marking compound imprinted on the wood. Work slowly, removing only a little wood between each fitting, until the parts fit closely together witb as little gap between the wood and metal as possible.

The outside should now be shaped similarly to the contour shown in the drawing and pictures, or until it feels comfortable in your hand. The shaping is easily done using a sanding wheel, as shown e

High Point 9mm Barrel Shroud

Barrel shroud.

.059 Seamless tubing 1. 125" O.D.

in Chapter 1, with final finish shaping done with rasps and files. Note that in the photographs, two different guns are shown, each with a slightly different grip style and finish. The grip you make should suit and fit you; ir need not be anywhere near the shape or size of the ones shown. When shaped to suit you, sand it smooth. Begin with coarse-grit sandpaper, follow with progressively finer grits, and finish with 400-grit paper. After the sanding is completed, apply a finish of whatever type suits you. I suggest that you use a waterproof finish. If you have no special preference, try brushing on several coats of Flecto-Varathane.

When the last coat is thoroughly dry, sand it back almost to the surface of the wood. This was simply used as a filler. Several coats of a finish such as Tru-Oil or Linspeed can now be added, providing an extremely durable and waterproof finish.

In certain instances it is desirable to apply several coats of black paint instead of the clear finish described above. One of the grips pictured has such a finish. This is usually done to simulate a plastic grip or, when used in conjunction with a bead or sand-blast finish on the metal parts, to simulate a military-type "nonglare" finish.

The barrel-retaining nut is made from 1 1/4-inch round stock. It is bored and threaded to screw on to the front threaded end of the receiver and serves to hold the barrel in place. Three narrow bands should be formed and knurled around the outside circumference both for appearance and to provide a secure grip when hand tightening or loosening the nut.

Bore the forward end of the nut to a diameter of 1 1/8 inches and to a depth of 1/4 inch, leaving a thin web that should be bored slightly larger than the barrel diameter. This bears against the barrel flange and holds the barrel in place inside the receiver.

A section of steel tubing, 1 1/8 inches in outside diameter and 4 1/4 inches long, is used for the barrel shroud. Since there is no strength requirement, the tubing can be of any grade of material available. It should be fairly thin-walled to save weight.

Many times, tubing salvaged from automobile shock absorbers is satisfactory for this. Insert one end of the tubing into the front end of the barrel nut and silver solder or weld in place, thus forming the barrel shroud.

A series of holes to "ventilate" the barrel shroud should be drilled around the circumference and along the length of it. Though these are mainly for appearance, they do serve to reduce weight and might actually contribute to cooling the barrel by increasing air circulation around it. The holes can be of whatever diameter and laid out in whatever pattern you choose. The prototype gun had four rows of equally spaced 3/8-inch-diameter holes, spaced .200 inch apart, beginning 1/2 inch forward from the face of the barrel nut.

Glock 9mm Barrel Dimensions Inlet
Boring and threading the barrel-retaining nut.
2inch Bore Drill Bits

Above: Completed barrel-retaining nut. Right: Completed barrel shroud. Below: Barrel shroud in place.

Barrel ShroudBarrel Shape End MillsYourself Handgun Grips Blanks

Grip blank, shown with finished grip. Cut frame slot with end mill.

9mm Barrel Diameter

Grip blank, shown with finished grip. Cut frame slot with end mill.

Drill bolt hole using same setup.

Gnp can be shaped almost to final contour using disc sander. Left: Ready for final sanding and finishing. Right: Grip with mounting bolt in place.

Drill bolt hole using same setup.

Grip mounted on gun.

Sights ince I built the first version of this ^^^^^^ gun nearly 20 years ago, I have ^^^ gained quite a bit of experience and V W learned a great deal concerning

^^^^^ firearms of this type. One of the things I learned over the years is that elaborate sights are not really necessary or even desirable. The gun pictured and described here has only a simple blade front sight and a fixed, notched rear sight. When aligned and cut to the correct heights, these are adequate for their intended use.

Bases, with protective ears, for these sights can be milled or sawed and filed from solid blocks. They can also be formed from sheet metal rather easily, using a heavy hammer and simple form blocks.

A simple form block, which can be used to form both front and rear bases, is made by machining a radius to match the contour of the receiver plus the thickness of the material used, on the lower side of the block. A radius of 11/16

inch will be right for this. The block should be

.625 inch wide and 1 inch long. This will form the inside of the sight bases. Use a short length of

1 1/4-inch round stock to form the concave portion that adjoins the receiver. It is helpful to drill two 3/16-inch-diameter holes, one located near each end, from the top and completely through the form block. These should also extend partway through the round lower form block. Locating pins inserted in these holes hold the assembly together and keep it aligned while in use.

Cut blanks, as shown in the drawing, from 14-gauge sheet metal with holes drilled to correspond to the locator pin holes. Then, with the locating pins in place, sandwich the blank between the die parts and clamp the assembly in the vise. Pressure from the vise jaws will form the radiused bottom portion. Then form the sides using a block and hammer.

Cut a lengthwise slot in one base to accept the front sight blade, which is cut from 1/8-inch-thick material, and crosswise through the other for the rear sight cross piece. The sight blades are fluxed and located in place, whereupon both assemblies are silver-soldered in place on the upper receiver, securing both the sight blades and bases at the same time. Both sights can be kept in

Bases formed from 16ga. sheet

seSJ

.150"

625jM

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Front and rear sights.

Images Front Sight Pistol

longitudinal alignment during installation by placing a piece of 5/8-inch-wide material between the sight ears and the top of the blades and clamping it tight while the silver-soldering operation is performed.

If you must have adjustable sights, Vol. I contains instructions for building a rear sight suitable for this purpose. It is also possible to replace the rear sight cross piece with a Williams "Guide" adjustable sight or a similar one made by Marble.

Left : Clamp form die, with blank in place, in vise.

Left: When pressure is applied, radius is formed.

Top: Form dies, with sight base blanks.

Above: Blank in place over locating pins.

Right: With support blocks in place on lower side, flange is formed using block and hammer.

Far Right: Turn the assembly over and form the other side.

Pistol Vise HomemadeFront Sight Base AlignmentHomemade Pistol Trigger Assemly

Top Left: Front sight base with blade. Top Right: Front sight assembled. Lower Left: Formed rear sight base with leaf. Lower Right: Rear sight assembled.

Right: Bottom view of the assembled sights, showing soldered joint.

Right: Bottom view of the assembled sights, showing soldered joint.

Llama 9mm Handgun AssemblyHome Made Over Barrel SuppressorHome Made Over Barrel Suppressor

Keep sights in alignment during installation by using Sights installed using silver solder, square stock that fits closely inside bases.

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