The buttstock is simply a section of 2-inch-outside-diameter tubing with a mounting plate for a recoil pad made from 12-gauge sheet metal and welded to one end. This is inserted in the receiver body, and the holes are drilled through both parts in the same operation. This should be done before the bolt slot is cut completely through the rear end because, as mentioned before, the tubing has a tendency to spring open slightly when it is cut completely through and the tension released.

The top-side bolt holes should be enlarged to accept a threaded bushing that, while acting as a nut, gives more thread depth than is possible with the tubing alone.

The biggest recoil pads I have been able to find are 2 inches wide and 6 inches long. These are made by Pachmayr, and the only thing wrong with them is that they cost about as much as some rifles and pistols. This pad, or whatever other type you choose, should be bolted to the mounting plate and the plate dressed to match the contour of the pad.

If desired, a bracket can be silver-soldered to the lower end of the mounting plate and a brace, or stiffener, bolted both to it and the bottom of the grip. This strengthens both the grip and buttplate. Although not necessary or even desirable if the rifle is to be used as a target or bench rest rifle, it could be a worthwhile addition if the rifle is intended for use in field or combat situations.





A base to mount the scope on (which will raise the sight line approximately 1 inch higher than is usual on a standard rifle) must be constructed. Even though this .50-caliber rifle generates no more recoil than most other large-caliber rifles, this base should be solid and sturdy.

Two short steel sections should be contoured to fit against the receiver tube and silver-soldered in place atop the receiver in the location that the bases will occupy. These simply add thread area as they are drilled and tapped through both these and the receiver.

Two steel blocks are contoured to fit the receiver tube, and a slot is cut down the center of each to fit over each of the reinforcing bars described above.

Depending on the scope bases you intend to use, a connecting bar is made to accept it and silver-soldered to the top of the elevating blocks. The one shown in the drawing is for use with Weaver-type rings; if the steel rings used are of the same type as those made by Redfield and others, a sturdy mounting system is ensured. If other types of rings are used, they can simply be screwed to the blocks as they would be on a standard rifle.

This base should be drilled to accept four screws and clamped in place and the mounting screw holes drilled through the receiver. They are then tapped to accept proper screws. I recommend using 10 x 32 screws for this.

Be sure that you have enough eye relief to avoid being hit in the eye with the scope when firing. Try to mount the scope as far forward as possible while retaining a complete field of view.

Scope and mount in place on rifle.








1.125 R



A rifle such as this produces quite a lot of torque, or twisting, to the right when fired, so a sturdy bipod is in order. It would be nice if one could simply obtain one of the ready-made ones and mount it in place. The trouble is, there are simply no satisfactory ones available—at least not that I know of.

The center section, which mounts at the front end of the receiver and is held in place with screws, is machined from 2-inch round stock. This should be contoured to a close fit with the receiver and a bar silver-soldered over the mounting position and drilled and tapped just like the scope-mount screw holes were.

The hinged ends of the legs are made from the same 2-inch round stock, with the legs made from .065-inch-wall-thickness seamless tubing welded in place. The lower ends can be shaped as shown or modified as desired and pinned or welded in place.

A template should be made to locate the locking pin holes. To be effective these holes must line up exactly. If they don't, there is a good chance that the bipod will collapse when the rifle is fired.

The spring-loaded detent, or locking, pins are made from drill rod with the push buttons silver-soldered in place.

In use, the button is pushed in and the leg extended or folded against the receiver, where it will lock in place when the hole and pin line up and the spring forces the detent pin into place. This process is repeated on the other side to place both legs in the same position.

Side view of same.

Bipod mounted in place.


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