over the spot where the original fixed stud was attached. From experience I know that this size varies quite a bit with different barrels and studs. Moreover, a ramp fitted over the lettering and ordnance insignia stamped on the barrel near the muzzle is going to look like the very devil. Before a ramp is fitted this lettering should be "struck ' off and the barrel polished—and if this is done, the "store" ramp will then prove to be too large. The only way a ramp can be fitted—I mean really fitted, so that there is no streak of solder showing along the edges, is to make it slightly smaller than the barrel, and fit it tightly, Another thing—the ready made ramp is just about half as high as can be used on a Springfield; thus it requires a very high front sight which sticks way up above a ramp, making it fall far short of its purpose. One of the best things about the right kind of a ramp is that it can be made so high that you use a very low front sight, which is thus better protected, stronger, and easier to shoot accurately than a thin, flimsy affair hovering in mid air half an inch or so above the top of ramp.
The entire upper surface of the ramp should be matted, and this process is described fully in Chapter 19.
With a complete machine shop at his disposal, the gunsmith is in position to make a splendid FRONT SIGHT COVER to be attached to the ramp. Such a cover is illustrated in Figure 154, made from 5/8 inch Shelby tubing with 1/16 inch wall. To form, take a piece of 1/2 inch steel drill rod, and mill a fiat 3/8 inch wide on one side. Force this into the tubing, and hammer one side of tube flat against the flat portion of rod. The flat portion is then slotted as shown, either with hacksaw and file, or by milling. The closed end may be knurled or finished smooth as preferred. One side of
this cat near the closed end should be notched as shown, and the point relieved slightly.
The barrel with ramp attached (after the rifle has been sighted in and slot cut for front sight) is now mounted on the bed of milling machine and slots 1/16 inch wide and 1/16 inch deep cut in the sides. The distance of these slors should be figured from the front sight bead» so as to about center the bead in the sight cover. A hole is now drilled in the slot on left hand side of ramp, and a round end pin of drill rod driven into it, the rounded end projecting into slot dot more than 1/32 inch. When the sight coveT is pushed into place, the edges slide in the grooves in ramp, while the left hand edge rides up over the projecting end of pin, which snaps into the notch in edge
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