gun is rust proof, and should not wear bright if it is properly finished.
Revolver barrels may be cut off by the same method used for shortening and truing up rifle barrels; Chapter 24. Shortening the barrel of course necessitates fitting a new front sight, which is covered fully in Chapter 29, as well as the method of changing an ordinary blade front sight to the "Call" typf.
When a revolver or pistol barrel has been cut off for any reason, there remains the problem of providing A NEW FRONT SIGHT and a suitable method of fitting it. The most common practice is 9imply to cut a dovetail in the barrel, and fit any rifle sight desired. A better way, and one which results in a much more attractive job, is to make a barrel band similar to the Springfield fixed stud, then make a sight, with its lower portion shaped to fit
Any of the foregoing methods will answer for removing the barrel of the Colt .22 Automatic, or other arms having barrel screwed into frame.
Never try to hold a barrel in a flat jawed vise with one side of front sight resting against the vise jaw. The sight or sight base is almost sure to give way and bend, or be sheared off, before the threads will start.
FITTING NEW BARRELS: Having removed the old barrel, the threads in receiver should be washed out clean with gasoline on an old tooth brush. Also clean the threads on end of new barrel, and oil them lightly with a thin oil. Screw the barrel into receiver by hand until the shoulder touches, then note how much the fmnt sjght lacks of being properly lined up on top. Probably it will require about a quarter turn to bring it tu place. Remove the barrel, and file off end of receiver where it meets barrel shoulder. Use a very fine "dead cut" pillar file wide enough to cover the surface at one stroke. Lay rhr file flat and take a very light cut. Then try
the dovetail, as shown in Figure 200. The band or fixed stud may be made of Shelby tubing, or may be bored from solid metal and ground and filed to shape. The sight may be shaped up and finished in any manner desired,—a round bead, a flat top blade or Patridge, or a gold dot inserted similar to the Call sight. The fixed stud may be attached to the barrel by sweating, or it may be made a snug fit and pinned with a transverse pin biting half its diameter into the barrel, as at A, Figure 200, or a small headless setscrew may be set vertically into the thick portion of the stud, the point entering a shallow depression drilled into the barrel, as at B, Figure 200. Before finishing, the sight should be fitted temporarily on the barrel, and filed to correct height by shooting on a target; then it should be removed and the parts carefully fitted together, polished, and blued, after which they are replaced to stay.
There is no objection whatever to using a low, short ramp on a pistol or revolver—in fact a ramp 2 inches long looks decidedly snappy on a long barreled target gun, and permits the use of any type of front sight desired. The ramp may have a band, and be sweated on in the same manner as on a rifle, or it may be made without a band and soldered to the barrel. Good half-and-half solder will hold more strain than it will ever receive—but if desired, the bore may be coated with file-hardening compound to protect it against oxidation, and the ramp silver-soldered. Use the ribbon solder prepared for brazing handsaws.
THE CALL FRONT SIGHT, as supplied to order on Smith and Wesson revolvers is gaining in popularity with many shooters, while others claim they see little advantage in it. This is a wide square blade of the Patridge type with a round gold dot set in the face of the sight near the top edge. In some lights the gold dot shows up bright and distinct against a dark background, while the square edge of black steel gives sharp definition. When using the sights from a darkened firing point the gold is not visible, the sight appearing as a regular flat top blade or Patridge.
There are several ways of adapting this idea to a regular blade front sight. The edge of blade next the shooter should be filed straight and flat; it may be vertical, or may slope forward at an angle of 10 to 15 degrees. Then the hole should be accurately centered so that its outer edge will barely miss the top and sides of blade, and drilled carcfully to a depth of about 1/16 inch. A fine jeweler's drill or dental engine will be required—jobs this small cannot be done with a hand drill. The jeweler will either tap the hole and put in a gold scrrw, or he may melt in a drop of gold solder with his torch. The dentist will doubtless undercut the hole on the bottom and put in a gold filling. I can't see any reason why gold amalgam wouldn't do the trick nicely, but since I'm not a dentist, I may be wrong.
The surface of blade which has been filed must of course be re-blucd, and this can be done without injury to the balance of the gun, by lamping.
CHANGING THE GROUPING. Sometimes a revolver as sent out from rhe factory will group its shots to right or lefr, or high or low. When the sights arc adjustable, the grouping may be changed as desired, by raising the rear sight if the gun shoots loo low, or by lowering the front sight; and by lowering the rear sight or raising rhe front sight if the gun shoots too high; by moving rear sight to right, or front sight to left, the gun may be made to group its shots more to the right; while moving rear sight to left, or front sight to right, moves the group to the left. In "Pistols and Revolvers," Major Hatcher has given some excellent dope on pistol sight adjustment which should be carefully studied.
On guns having non-adjustable sights the group may be lowered by fitting a higher front sight, or raised by filing down the front sight on the gun, or by substituting a lower one. When such guns shoot to one side, however, the remedy is to move the front sight in the opposite direction.
If it is desired to move the front sight to the left, this can be accomplished sometimes by setting the barrel a trifle tighter in the frame. Usually, however, it is necessary to bend the front sight, and I have found the following method very good:
Take a piece of machine steel about 5/8 inch thick, and drill a hole in it, then ream the hole so that the barrel muzzle may be
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