Regardless of the difficulties a job of polishing presents, remember it was polished at the factory when made, so your work is no harder than that of the man who made the gun. By studying the surface carefully you can usually see in what direction the original polishing was done, which gives you your cue.
The same applies to automatic pistols and revolvers, both of which offer some mighty mean polishing problems. The polishing is usually done in the direction of the milling cuts which formed the shape. The main thing is to avoid all scratches or cross marks, which will appear as glaring defects after the gun is blued.
BUFFING may well be resorted to on any pistol or revolver job. The best wheels for this purpose are the hard, solid felt ones which may be purchased in a variety of sizes. Use Tripoli or other standard brand of rouge. If you have a high speed grinder with
tapered spindles on each end, it will pay also to turn up some small pieces of hardwood like Figure 124; these are bored at one end to screw on end of grinder spindle, and the other end covered with felt, to which rouge is applied. These spindle buffers arc worth their weight in gold for working inside the trigger guard, and in narrow and shallow outside curves.
On military arms with hardened receivers, you will find emery of little value for polishing. It cuts slowly, and breaks down very quickly. Carborundum or alundum cloth is much better, and due to the hardness of the metal, a coarser ^rade may be used without danger of cutting too deeply. Thus, where you would use No. 0 on a barrel or other soft parts, you can use No. 1/2 or even No. 1 abrasive on hardened receivers. A finer grade should of course be used for finishing, followed by buffing on a muslin buffer with plenty of rouge to remove any cross marks that show. There is no need to polish the bottom side of receivers where they are hidden within the stock. This is a waste of time and necessary only as a matter of principle on high priced jobs.
POLISHING BOLTS is not difficult, although one's ingenuitr is often taxed to devise ways of holding them in the vise. The Springfield bolt from a service rifle is Parkerized, hence quite rough and hard working. The extractor and extractor collar should be removed, and with one end of bolt held firmly in vise, the bolt should be cross-polished with No. 0 Carborundum cloth until all old finish is off. Along the sides of the safety lug and locking lugs cross-polishing will not get to the surface—here you must have recourse to a small piece of cloth folded to reach into the corners. After cross polishing, the bolt should be draw-polished lengthwise
Was this article helpful?