wipe it dry, and quickly coat it with du Pont Cement, also coating the butt. Pur pad in place and tighten up the screws. Thick shellac may be used instead of cement if preferred, but the cement is better. Ft completely closes the joint and prevents dampness affecting the stock through the end grain.

The next step is to buff down the edges of pad even with the wood. This is done on the sandpaper wheel as shown in Figure 89. Work very carefully, holding the stock so that its surface is parallel with the surface of the wheel, and move stock up and down so as not to

Fig. 89

cut too fast in any one place. Be especially careful when working round the toe and heel, particularly the toe. It takes steady holding and fast thinking to avoid cutting notches in the wood at these points, and also to prevent beveling the edges of the pad, which should be in continuation of the stock lines at all points. Use very light contact between the rubber and the wheel, especially when finishing the cut.

The red rubber pads with hard black rubber base are all attached in the above manner. This includes the Hawkins, the Jotsom Anti-Flinch, Hi-Gun, and the various Silvers type pads. The first three named all have variously shaped holes cut through the red rubber from side to side, to increase resiliency, while those of the Silvers type are solid, but with a hollow on the inside, which provides an air cushion. My own preference is for the Silvers type pad, particularly on rifles. Having no holes cut in the rubber, the pad is always clean and free from dirt and trash, which is bound to ac-

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