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torch, building in new metal with good carbon steel welding rods. The pointed projection is then ground off as shown by dotted lines in drawing (4), and the handle filed smooth and polished.

I am showing this alteration for what it may be worth to the reader, and would not hesitate to do the job for anyone who wanted it done. The strength would be somewhat reduced, of course, but the handle should be amply strong for ordinary use. Personally, my bolt handles will not be heated. The softening of the cocking cam, while not materially affecting the work of the bolt, will in time result in wear which will prevent the smooth, fast opening action possible only in a well hardened bolt.

The foregoing instructions will apply generally to almost any bolt handle that is to be slightly bent from its original shape. It is 9eldom necessary to bend the Krag handle back, although it may in some instances be desirable to turn it a bit closer to the stock on a saddle gun, and the same may apply to the Remington Model 30, the 54 Winchester, the Newton—in fact any bolt handle that

Fig. 180

docs not suit the owner can be considerably altered within reasonable limits. In this, as in other alterations, MODERATION should be the order of the day. Don't run things to extremes or you will soon become sick of the gun.

Figure 189 shows a simple, yet very effective alteration on the bolt handle of the Russian 7.62 mm. rifle. In this case—and in some Mausers and Mannlichers as well—the handle sticks straight out from the receiver like the springboard down at the old swimmin' hole; and it is so far forward that only a man -with gorilla arms can reach it without taking the piece from the shoulder. Bending down the handle helps but little—it should be lengthened and bent back toward the trigger far enough so that it may easily be reached without taking the arm from the shoulder.

On some rifles this is accomplished by cutting the bolt handle in two between knob and bolt, and welding in a piece of steel. On

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