careful polishing o! breech block and other parts, particular cam notches in actuating bars, etc., where friction retards the action.
Never change the angle of a cocking cam in the least, or the entire mechanism will be thrown out of "kilter." Neither should the edges be beveled—leave them sharp and square. The one exception ii on the cim surface in receiver of the Model 23 Savage sport era, which usually come from the factory with a very short, abrupt slope. The lower point of this slope can be filed down even with upper surface of bolt handle when closed (the metal is not hardened, and files easily), thus greatly easing the cam and causing the bolt to dose with about half the pressure originally required. The surface of this cam, after filing, should of course be polished very smooth.
If one has unlimited time and desires to carry this polishing of parts to the nth degree, make a burnisher out of an old flat file, as shown in Figure 161. This should be about 2 1/2 inches in length, with the teeth completely ground off all round, taking care not to "burn" the file. The efficiency of a burnisher depends on its extreme hardness. Grind the edges round and polish them very smooth. When you think they can be made no smoother, rake the edge across a piece of soft copper, and note the scratches—then do some more polishing. Nail a thick piece of leather, flesh side up on the bench, rub a little very fine rouge into it, and use this for a strop. Rub the burnisher vigorously on the leather from time to time while using.
To burnish parts, hold them firmly and rub the curved edge of burnisher across the surface with good pressure. Note how the metal takes on a brighter finish, which is perfectly even if you cover every point of the surface as you work. This burnishing smooths the surface and closes the pores of the metalj even making the surface slightly harder. No polishing of any sort with abrasives should be done after a part is burnished.
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