field plate. The buttplate you purpose using is carefully set up in a four jaw lathe chuck, so as to center exactly the point at the center of the hole to be cut. The hole is then turned in, and its edge* beveled at an angle of about 45 degrees. The slot for the hinge of trap is filed in, and the trap heated and bent slightly to conform to the curved surface of plate. Careful filing then fits the trap into its seat smoothly. The hinge pin rests at each end in small depressions cut in the under surface of the plate on each side of the hinge slot. The easiest way to cut these depressions is with a dental engine and round burr. Lacking this, make a shallow indentation with a drill just back of the edge, and chip out the metal at edge with a small

Fig. 157

sharp cold chisel. When the ends of hinge pin are correctly seated in these depressions, the trap is held in place by pressure of the spring.

Figure 157 shows a rather unique method of making the Springfield Sporter buttplate removable, giving access to a hollow in the butt. A slot was cut in each end of the plate with a hacksaw. Into this was fitted a key made of clockspring, bent over short at the outer end. This spring key fitted tightly under the lug brazed to the inner plate which was made of sheet steel 1/16 inch thick. This inner plate was smaller than the butt, permitting the buttplate to set down over it, and the plate was attached to the butt with several small wood screws. The two screw holes in buttplare were filled with the cut-off heads of the screws, riveted into the holes.

The crank with definite ideas of his own as to what a buttplate should be, will not hesitate to make it by whatever means seem best adapted to the job. One way, if he is skillful ar the anvil, is to forge the plate from a bar of steel, shaping it roughly as desired, then grinding and filing to final dimensions. Another way is to

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