on planer or shaper, and the tongue-and-groove surfaces sweat-soldered together. They are then placed in the lathe with ends 3/32 inch off center above and below the surface, and turned into a plug to fit the barrel, with ends relieved as shown. They are then heated until they come apart, ard the solder cleaned off, and surfaces well polished. To use, they are placed in the barrel as shown in the isometric drawing, so as just clear the dent. A heavy rod is held against one end, and another driven against the other end, wedging the two together like a printer's quoins, and pushing out the dent; then a little light hammering over outside of dent will loosen them and let them drop out ol barrel. A hardened steel stop pin should be fitted as shown by «lotted lines to prevent excessive wedging which might bulge or crack the barrel.
Two or three of these "barrel quoins" for 12, 16, and 20 gauge barrels, hardened, ground and lapped to size, and well polished, would be worth their cost to any gunsmith doing yery much shotgun work, because removing dents in barrels is one of the commonest of the small jobs—and these gadgets would do it at a profit
SOLDERING SHOTGUN BARRELS AND RIBS. The method of joining shotgun barrels together and of attaching the ribs, which is followed by leading manufacturers of dquble guns, and by
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