Number 5 or 6 Addis Chisel. Figure 81 shows the method of cross-cutting from center toward each side, to avoid any splitting or tearing, no matter how curly or cross-grained the wood. All inside cuts are much more easily made across the grain, but the tools must be kept very sharp, so as to really cut, and not merely "dig," "gouge," or "tear." This cross cutting leaves a ridge in the center which is removed with a 1/2 inch flat chisel at first, and later, as the cuts are deepened, the bottoming tools described in Chapter 4 will come into use. They are especially necessary in the end next the grip, where the chiscis cannot be held at the proper angle.
Having removed the wood to a depth of 1 /8 inch or so inside the outline, the next step is to let in the magazine. Use a wide, very slightly curved chisel for this. A 7/8 inch or 1 inch Number 3 or
4 Addis Chisel is almost indispensable for this work. If you have nothing but a plain carpenter's chisel, the cutting edge should be ground and whetted to a slight curve. Push the chisel straight through until the sides are straightened up and the magazine will start to enter. Now coat the entire surface of magazine and under side of guard with lampblack and oil, using a stiff bristle brush and applying the thinnest possible coat. Try the guard, forcing it in as far as possible without driving it. The black smudges will show you the high spots which must be taken off. Trim them slowly and carefully, always across the grain, and always with a very slightly curved chisel rather than a perfectly flat one. Re-blacken the magazine and try it after every few cuts, and as it approaches its final seat, take the lightest possible cuts to avoid leaving gaps. When fully seated the outer surface of guard will be perhaps 1/8 inch below the surface of the wood— the blank should be sufficiently oversize for that.
IMPORTANT: When fitting the guard, the edges of tang portions must be tight against the wood. This of course will blacken the wood each time it is tried. So long as it can be seated with moderate pressure, do not keep cutting away the wood at the sides, or wide, unsightly gaps will result. Remove only the wood where it actually prevents the parts entering.
Compare your work as it proceeds with the machine cuts in the original stock. Many points will be noted where you can leave in extra wood, providing additional support to the steel. Work slowly and fit as closely as possible at all points, particularly where the wood and steel join at the outer edges, where gaps will be most unsightly. Be sure the magazine goes in straight—not canted to either side. If the thickness of the blank necessitates sinking the guard much below the surface, the surplus wood should be trimmed from the outside. Use a wide, slightly hollow chisel for this. Rest it on the surface of guard tangs and cut toward the sides, but do not bring the wood closer than 1/16 inch from the surface of steel until ready to shape up the stock.
Was this article helpful?