spring brass about 1/32 inch thick, and file the brass carefully to ihape. Try it often in the mortice in old stock, until it just fits snugly. Now file it about 1/32 inch smaller all round—this to give you a margin of safety and to allow for thickness of pencil point or scriber when marking around it. Do not make the screw holes full size, but locate their exact centers on the templet and drill them 1/16 inch. Lay the templet on the stock so the center line shows through these holes, and drive a brad into each hole to keep the templet in place while marking. The brad hole then gives you
enabling you to cut down to the depth indicated by templet without frequently trying the action. Such a templet or gauge is shown in Figure 26 4,a." This one gives the depth and shape of extreme forward end of receiver mortice. The round side is struck on a 5/8 inch radius. By means of this, one can go right ahead and cut away wood at this point until the side wings of templet rest on top of the stock blank.
MUZZLING CUTTERS: The crowning of a barrel muzzle is often puzzling to the amateur who has sawed off a barrel and doesn't know how to get the muzzle trued up square, with edge nearly rounded. In Chapter 24 I have described a simple method of lapping it true by means of graduated sizes of brass balls. The gunsmith who has frequent calls to cut off and crown Krag barrels, for example, will find the simple cutter shown in Figure 27 a convenience, for speeding up the job and reducing cost. The blade is made of tool steel 1/16 inch thick, with cutting edges beveled on opposite sides. The edge should be shaped and beveled, and the
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