drill rod. Cut a piece two or three inches long, just a trifle larger than the hole is to be. File or turn the pilot to required size, and file cutting edges on sides or end as required. Harden, draw at dark straw color, and use in the breast or hand drill. For bottoming a small hole in barrel, use stock the same size as the drill. Drill hole a short distance with twist drill, then use a flat drill cutting only on rhe end to scrape out the bottom. Flat drills may be made in any size for drilling holes in wood. Taper them sharply toward the shank, and shape the point into a wide V, beveling the edges from opposite sides.

The DRILL JIG shown in Figure 24 is worth its weight in gold. The best way is to make a pattern, or have one made in a pattern shop, then have the frame cast at a foundry. Bushings removable from the headstock are made to fit the different size drills you will ordinarily want to use. The hole in head and tail stock should be accurately machined, and the hole in tail stock fitted with a bushing to take a regular tapered lathe center, with cup point. The use of this jig for drilling Springfield guard screw holes and similar work is mentioned later on, and explained fully.

An adjustable drilling jig may be made at small cost as shown in Figure 25. This is a piece of 2 x 3 inch T-bar, with the top planed true and level. Holes are drilled at 2 inch intervals so that the tail stock may be set at any desired distance from the drill.

The CHECKING CRADLE, for holding stocks while being checked, is described and illustrated in Chapter 12.

TEMPLETS and their uses will be mentioned in Chapter 10, and elsewhere. It is advisable to have templets of butt shapes, also for magazine mortices, and similar uses that will be encountered more or less frequently. A number of different templates and their

Fig 26

Fig 26

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