strip of wood over each of the strips, then clamp in the vise for 48 hours before shaping. The strips should be spotted in with chalk, same as other patchwork, and don't depend on the glue filling up any gaping edges, because it won't. The instant the checking tool hits it, it's out. Fit the strips tight at all points.
Most military stocks have deep channels cut in the forend under the barrel to lighten the stock. • Usually cutting the forend to sporting length exposes one of these at rhc end. This one must be filled to make a good job. I usually use a piece of solid wood from the same stock, taken from the muzzle end where there is no channel —this gives a piece of walnut that will match. Square this piece
Even then it is entirely practicable to square up the sides, dressing off
up to a snug sliding fit in the hollow under barrel at muzzle. Coat it with hot glue, or du Pont cement, also coat the inside of hollow. Slip it in place, and clamp in the vise from side to side, also use a small clamp from top to bottom. Or, place a round stick on top in the bar/el channel and clamp from top to bottom of forend ¡11 the vise, using a hand clamp against the sides. When dry, cut the heads off four small cigar box nails, and drive them in, two on each side, sinking them well below the surface. When the stock is sanded and oiled the holes will close up and will not be noticeable.
The barrel is held to the forend by the original outside band, or by one of the inside bands described in Chapter 24, according to the-design of your forend.
REPAIRING BROKEN STOCKS. Sometimes—but not often —a broken stock can be repaired to make it as good as new, and as strong. Usually a new stock is indicated. Since no two breaks are exactly alike, the exercise of a little ingenuity is usually required to decide how to make the repair and whether or not any repair is practicable.
Stocks of bolt action rifles, if they break at all, usually break across the grip as indicated bv Figure 103, or else split vertically
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