type of tool and lbakn to use it—then, if you find better tools, there's nothing on earth to stop you from changing. Your skill won't leave you oil that account

Figure 18, shows three tools and a bent escapement file. "A" » the line spacer; ,4B" is the V-tool or deepening tool with which the diamonds are pointed up; "C" is a border cutter—seldom necessary but sometimes used; and "D" is the file for finishing up the diamonds.

All these tools but the file may be made of 5/32 inch drill rod. The V-tool may be made of 3/16 inch rod if preferred.

Cut a piece of rod about 8 inches long, heat the end cherry red and forge it flat, then bend to the angle shown. Shape it up carefully

widi a file; cut the groove in underside very deep, using a die-sinker's knife edge needle file. Use a 3-squaie escapement file to cut the teeth, and note that these are cut on the sides of the tool, and not across the bottom. Each of the two edges of the line spacer it sharp, so that the file, being turned in slightly during the cutting, the teeth take form both on sides and bottom edge. The teeth may be almost vertical, or they may lean forward or back slightly. I have all three kinds, as some work better on some woods and some on others. Generally I find that the tooth which slopes back toward lower edge follows a line easier, and cuts with less tendency to catch and jump. After cutting the teeth on both sides, heat the cutter end bright cherry red and dip it in water; then dip in linseed oil and flash off the oil once to draw the temper. TTiis leaves it plenty hard for good work, yet soft enough so that the teeth may be touched up a bit with a file when dull.

Before cutting the teeth rub the two edges of cutter on a block of wood and measure the distance between lines carefully with sharp dividers. Then after the teeth arc filed, cut a few lines and see how many they run to the inch. If the cutter is too wide, dress off both sides slightly until the cut is narrowed sufficiently and re-sharpen the teeth before tempering;. The size cuts best adapted for various grades of wood is discussed in Chapter 12.

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