on the end as well as on the side, this type of burr is especially valuable in small "tight" jobs.
Figure 9, shows a cross-cut Cherry. This is similar to the round burr in P'igurc 4, but cuts faster.
Figure 10, shows a tapered fissure burr known as an "inlay fissure"—not particularly useful to the gunsmith, but might be used occasionally.
Figure 11, is an end cutting fissure, used for bottoming out a hole or slot without cutting the sides. Better than an end mill or any other machine tool for cutting square bottom holes in barrels for scope block screws.
Twist drills, reamers and extra large diamond point drills may be had for the handpiece of the dental engine, from dental supply houses: but the discarded drills of the dental practitioner's office will keep the amateur or professional gunsmith supplied for years and save him many hours of time.
Vulcanite burrs (similar to those already described, but made for drilling and cutting vulcanite) are very handy- for use on wood; also large size surgical burrs. What a convenience for some small, nearly inaccessible cut when inletting a stock, or fitting a small inlay I
Besides the burrs, there are the mandrels and mounted carborundum stones and wheels—all extremely useful. The various carborundum mounted points and wheels are shown in Figure 12. No need to mention their uses in gunsmithing—you've wished for just such a thing many and many a rimel Knock off the case-hardening where you wish to drill a hole—level off projecting ends of screws in a receiver after fitting a Noske scope mount or a Lyman 48 sight, trim and smooth out angles and corners in parts that have been welded—there's no end to what you can do with these points and wheels; new uses will be found on every job.
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