Enfield Revolver No. 2 Mk 1 and Mk 1
A controversy has raged for many years—which is the better military handgun, the automatic (autoloading) pistol or the revolver? This argument will not be rehashed here, but it is sufficient to say that the British army in the past has sworn by the revolver. In spite of the fact that every other major world power uses an automatic pistol, the British stick by their No. 2 Mk 1 and Mk 1* (Mark'One Star).
Enfield No. 2 revolvers were adopted to replace the heavv .455 caliber revolver No. 1 Mark VI. The fact that the No. 2 pistols are chambered for the .38 S&W cartridge (they call it caliber .380) indicates that the British have abandoned •the old .455 'Empire-builder', because figures indicate the .38 S&W, using a
E. J. Hoffschmidt is an artist-illustrator with years of experience with firearms.
200-grain bullet, is almost as good a manstopper as the .455. British revolvers have proven their worth in two world wars and innumerable 'police actions'.
Revolvers No. 2 Mk 1 and Mk 1 * are basically the same gun. The only difference lies in the fact that the Mk 1* has no hammer spur and must be fired double-action.
Webley & Scott Mark IV revolvers are often mistaken for Enfield No. 2 revolvers. They actually are quite different, both in design and in method of manufacture. While both were used during the last war, Enfields were made at the government arsenal at Enfield, and the Mk IV revolvers were manufactured by Webley & Scott Ltd., Birmingham. Even though the guns look a great deal alike, the Enfield is the simpler of the two from a repair point of view. By removing the sideplate, you can study the operation of the innards. Not so with the Weblev, as the
parts must be installed through openings in the frame.
The majority of the Enfield revolvers in this country have a war-time finish. Plenty of tool marks show, but the quality of the steel was maintained throughout the war. In spite of the awkward appearance, these top-break revolvers are faster to load and extract than any other type revolver. But there are one or two drawbacks. The cylinder can be knocked out of alignment if the gun is dropped in open position.
Another point to remember is not to close the gun with the hammer at full cock, for in this position the hand is sticking out of the frame and might be damaged by the ratchet. 4
The first point in stripping the No. 2 revolver is to removo the cylinder (H). Remove the cam lever screw (FF). The screw slot is wide enough for a coin. Open the gun as far as it will go and push up on the cam lover (II) as shown.
Before removing the extractor (I), put a few empty cartridges in the cylinder (H) to prevent the tiny locating pin from shearing off. Run a nail or punch through the hole in extractor nut (F) and unscrew it as shown. Lift out the extractor (I) and extractor spring (G)
After the barrel latch (R), the sideplate (VV), and the grips have been removed, the main-spring (RR) may be pushed out of its seat as shown and unhooked from the hammer swivel (NN). Needless to say, this should not be attempted with the hammer at full cock (Mk 1
The only other delicate, part in this gun is the cylinder stop spring (EE). Care must be taken not to deform it when removing the cylinder stop (DD). To remove the stop, it is necessary to depress it below the surface of the frame while prying it up off its pin
When re-assembling the gun, the mainspring is the only part that presents any difficulty. Squeeze the mainspring as shown. Insert the closed end into its seat in the frame. Then push tho hammer swivel (NN) into its cutout in the mainspring (RR)
The hand (AA) is kept forward by the pressure of the mainspring lever (SS). To replace the hand (AA), it is necessary to pry the mainspring lever up until it is opposite its notch in tho hand. Then push the hand in over the mainspring lever
Webley & Scott Self-Loading Pistol Mark I 1913
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