IThc conventional back-action lock is easily disassembled after removal from the stock. The lower end of the V mainspring (M) bears directly on the sear (H) and no sear spring is employed.
A) Lockplate F) Stirrup
C) Hammer screw H) Sear
D) Lockplate screw K) Bridle screws (2)
E) Tumbler M) Mainspring
2 The scale drawing shows right side and top detail of the assembled Deringer pistol and is a reference in identifying genuine H. Deringer pistols of this type. Minor variations in style of engraving occur; however, the engraving shown is most typical of this arm.
Place hammer (20) at half-cock position and unscrew side-plate screw (24) from left side of stock. Unscrew lockplate screw (22) and tap left side of stock gently to loosen lockplate. Lift lock assembly out right side of stock. To remove barrel (1). drift wedge (10) out of stock. Unscrew breech plug tang screw (5) and lift barrel and breech plug assembly up out of stock. Trigger guard (12) and plate (II) can be removed from underside of stock after removing trigger guard screw (13). Trigger (14) is removed by drifting trigger pivot pin (15) out of stock. Butt-plate is removed by unscrewing rear and front buttplate screws (17 & 18).
Removal of wedge plates (7). stock tip (8). escutcheon (9), and side-plate (23) from stock (6) is not recommended. Reassemble in reverse order. ■
The 10% margin between shoot-ability and absolute safety of a muzzle-loader is what anyone who uses the old ones has to look out for. It's the 10% that can injure you, put a hole in your wall, or convert a nice fireplace decoration into scrap iron.
Outside of the cardinal rule on all guns—never load 'em in the house—I'd say there were two primary rules of safety for muzzle-loaders, and one for any old cartridge weapon outside of the bolt-actions.
Number one rule on muzzle-loaders
A muzzle-loader can look like a prime shooter in all respects and have a breech rusted tissue paper thin.
The job is a nuisance and a headache, but always pull the breech plug on an untried weapon. This automatically catches two of your worst hazards, a dangerously rusted breech and an old load. I speak as one with a 6" hole in the wall of my house, caused by an 1857 musket that had been in my possession since childhood, and had just the night before yielded a pedigree paper from the barrel which stated it had been hung on the wall for the last time in 1880. but neglected to mention it had been hung up with a shot load in it. You think blackpowder isn't effective that long—hah! All that saved me from a tragedy during my childhood with this gun was that I had never cleaned out the percussion nipple in the years I shot it with match heads, paper caps, and so forth.
Number two rule
Don't believe the wise guy who says it's impossible to overload with black-powder; even some gunsmiths will tell you this.
The rule of thumb on covering your ball with powder is OK. but it's much better to get an old proof chart for your particular caliber or gauge and weigh the load, then make a container which will hold this much.
A sensitive area on overloads is the wood around the tang, where greatest recoil pressure occurs. An old stock, with wood dead and dried out over the years, can quite easily splinter in your face under too much stress.
Personally I'm enough of an old lady that 1 check all my stuff by remote control the first few times. The setup consists of a weighted box with a padded notch on one side, though an old tire casing will also do. The box or tire is set on the ground in a safe area, and a couple of stakes driven into the ground, a la artillery, to keep it from skittering all over the landscape. The trigger is pulled from several feet away by a string. Chances are, if your weap on doesn't come apart at the seams in two or three test shots, she's OK.
Almost as annoying as an overload, though usually not as dangerous, is a damp load. If you violate the number one rule and store your muzzle gun loaded in the house, it may take on moisture between one usage and the next, with the result that the next time you shoot it, all you get is a hissing like a basketful of snakes, and your bullet may go a quarter of the way up the barrel and lodge there. You can spend a happy time either pulling the breech plug and cleaning out the fizzled load, or trying to pick it out from the muzzle end. So even outside the safety consideration, if you finish your day's shooting with a load in, get rid of it.
And a final word on muzzle-loaders. Don't play cute games with blank loads, as I have known people to do at celebrations. That wad comes out with enough energy to injure someone or at least put a hole in the wall or ceiling.
Number one rule for old cartridge weapons is watch that firing pin. Outside of bolt-action weapons, few of your older guns had any positive means tor retraction of the firing pin.
So what happens? The firing pin gets worn or flat on one side, and starts to stick. One day out on the range you don't notice it and close the action and an 'accidentally' fired slug plows up the ground a few feet ahead of you. Often a "slam fire' like this occurs, he-fore the breech is thoroughly locked, which with the bigger stuff can be doubly dangerous. Safest bet is to always check the position of the firing pin before closing the action.
The old falling-blocks, by the nature of their breech closure, were built with very tight actions, and in rimfire calibers it is possible to fire them accidentally by trying to force the block up against or across the rim of a cartridge that has not chambered properly. While you can expect a fair amount of friction on this type of action, if you have to make a deliberate effort to close the block—don't. Look for the trouble first. A protruding firing pin may be catching on the lower rim of the cartridge and keeping the block from going up any further.
Trying to force it up with a sharp rap on the lever, as annoyance may cause you to do, is an almost sure way to get a 'slam fire'. If you want to check a weapon, do it outdoors.
Guns can be fun, properly handled. And also deadly. That's true of any gun, but in particular, watch out for the old ones.—h. C. Goble
By E. J. Hoffschmidt
There was a period in Germany when any schoolboy could tell you that Nikolaus von Dreyse invented the famous Prussian needle gun. Though he died in 1867, his name was revered up through World War I and numerous guns designed long after his death carried his name. One is the Schmeisser-designed Dreyse Model 1907 pistol, manufactured by the Rheinische Metallwaren and Maschinenfabrik of Soemmerda, Germany.
The Dreyse is an awkward pistol, due in part to the fact that it was developed near the beginning of the automatic pistol era. A few years after the gun was first marketed, Europe was swamped by the 1910 series of Browning, Mauser, Sauer, and Walther pocket pistols. The better designs of these weapons soon overshadowed the Dreyse. Although it was manufactured up to World War I, the Model 1907 was superseded by the Rheinmetall pistol after World War I. During the short time it was in production, numerous machining changes were made. Around 1912 the gun was redesigned and scaled up to handle the 9 mm. Luger cartridge. The 9 mm. pistol was used to a limited extent during World War I, but the German
Army never liked a blow-back-operated gun for such a powerful cartridge.
Although the grip design and general outline of the Model 1907 leave a great deal to be desired, it has a few interesting features. The most notable is the frame design. Unlike most common automatics, the sear mechanism can be inspected by removing a large side-plate. The frame is hinged and can be tipped up by moving a button at the back of the receiver. This action does not expose the barrel as in the Smith & Wesson and Le Francais pistols. It is helpful in clearing a jam, but it does not simplify the cleaning problem.
When the gun is cocked, a pin that can be easily seen or felt protrudes from the end of the slide. In spite of its seemingly complicated exterior, the operating parts are simple and fairly rugged.
3. Bolt head
4. Firing pin
5. Cocking indicator
6. Firing pin spring
7. Recoil spring
8. Recoil spring follower
9. Barrel extension
10. Ejector screw
12. Sear spring car
13. Sear spring
14. Right grip
15. Grip screw
18. Magazine catch spring
19. Magazine catch
20. Magazine catch pin
22. Side-plate screw
23. Left grip
24. Grip screw
25. Safety catch
26. Side-plate screw
27. Hinge screw
28. Trigger bar
30. Trigger spring
33. Frame latch
34. Frame latch spring
35. Safety catch spring
ITo disassemble: Remove magazine and clear chamber. Open action by pushing frame latch (33), on end of frame, to right and lifting up barrel extension (9) as shown. The gun will not come apart as it is hinged by a screw above the trigger guard
2 To avoid injuring knuckles it is best to clamp barrel extension of pistol in vise to simplify removal of slide. Depress recoil spring follower (8) with blade of small screwdriver until lug on follower clears notch in slide. Lift up serrated end of slide as shown, then case follower off barrel, remembering it is under extremely heavy spring tension
3 After recoil spring follower (8) and recoil spring (7) have been removed, push slide back as far as possible. Lift serrated portion and slide it free of barrel extension
A lo remove tiring pin (4) first lift out ex-^ tractor (2), then rotate bolt head (3) as shown until rounded portion is free of retaining cut in slide. It may be necessary to tap the bolt head with a soft hammer to start it ■
Dreyse Model 1907 .32 cal. Auto
Try It This Way
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Deer hunting is an interesting thing that reminds you of those golden old ages of 19th centuries, where a handsome hunk well equipped with all hunting material rides on horse searching for his target animal either for the purpose of displaying his masculine powers or for enticing and wooing his lady love.