1. Center pin
4. Guard and sear pin
5. Trigger guard
6. Sear spring
9. Cylinder stop spring
10. Center pin plunger spring
11. Center pin plunger
12. Trigger and front guard pins (2)
15. Lifter pin
16. Lever and spring assembly
17. Trigger spring
20a. Mainspring assembly
21. Mainspring guide
22. Mainspring seat
23. Hammer screw
24. Hammer screw stud
26. Barrel retaining pin
28. Front sight
25 (NOT TO 14 SCALE)
A Remove trigger guord (5), cylinder stop (8), ■ and stop spring (9), sear (7), sear spring (6), center pin plunger spring (10), plunger (11), from mainframe. Drive out trigger pin (12) and remove trigger assembly [trigger (13), trigger spring (17), lifter (14), lifter pin (15), lever and spring assembly (16)]. Diagram shows relative position of these parts assembled. Remove hammer screw (23) and gently drive out hammer screw stud (24) using care not to damage stud threads. Remove hammer (25). Removal of barrel should not be attempted except by a gunsmith
C In reassembling, replace hammer first.
Sear spring, sear, and trigger guard must be assembled before installation in frame, using slave pin through sear and trigger guord. Length of slave pin should not exceed width of trigger guard. Cylinder stop spring must be in-serted into stop spring hole in trigger guard before assembling guard to frame
XL When reinstalling trigger assembly, end of ^^ trigger spring must be in line with spring seat in bottom of trigger guard slot in frame. Guide lifter into position between hammer and frame with small screwdriver and press trigger assembly up into frame until pin holes line up. Secure by replacing trigger pin (12). Trigger guard, sear, and cylinder stop assembly is secured by replacing front guard pin (12) and guard and sear pin (4). The slave pin holding sear and guord for assembly should be driven out when replacing guord and sear pin (4). Note: By making extra long slave pins with finger loops it is possible to speed up preliminary assembly and disassembly operations when adjustments are required. When functioning is satisfactory, install permanent pins — ■■
This is a quality gun box that can be made inexpensively. Any strong wood can be used but mahogany or walnut finished with varnish appears particularly handsome.
Cut the top, bottom, end, and side pieces with care to obtain close fitting joints. Top and bottom pieces of the box are rabbeted on the ends and edges to receive box ends and sides. End pieces are rabbeted on the edges and grooved for accessory drawer and gun tray.
For assembly, I used Weldwood Re-sorcinol on all joints. Side panels were secured with 1" brads to tie the box together while the adhesive set. Linked bands of innertube pulled tightly around the box help hold joints tight. After the adhesive has set. dress the edges and the joints and round the corners to a V*" radius.
After the box is fully assembled and the glue has set, saw it apart to form the lid. The saw kerf and dressing of edges removes about W of wood. This is filled by soft sponge-rubber weatherstrip around the edge of the cut, except at the top hinge area. Attach weatherstrip with contact cement. Lid is attached with a full-length piano hinge across the top of the box.
Arrange partitions in the accessory tray to suit personal requirements. Partitions should be glued and nailed in place. Felt or thin sponge lining in compartments protects and quiets loose items when box is moved.
The gun tray has a 4-gun capacity and component parts are glued and nailed. Seven 1" No. 6 screws hold the barrel-rest in the center of tray.
A spotting scope may be permanently mounted on inside of the box cover. It should be mounted near the edge of the lid so, with the lid closed, the scope fits into the space beneath the gun tray.
Mount 2 sections of a glove fastener to hold the lid open on either side of lid hinge.
Handle, latch, glove fastener, and corner fittings may be obtained from luggage supply firms.—Richard P. Demerse
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