750 Gr. Corrosive Sublimate
1000 Gr. Potassium Chlorate
1200 Gr. Potassium Nitrate
300 Gr. Ferric Chloride
150 Gr. Cupric Chloride
Place the above six chemicals in a glass receptacle. Chances are you may have to get them already mixed at a drug store since potassium chlorate is an explosive under certain conditions, and will probably be difficult to obtain separately. Heat 1700 CC of distilled water to 130 degrees F. and pour it into the glass receptacle. Agitate the mixture until all the chemicals are completely dissolved and allow to cool.
After about ten hours, add 175 CC sweet spirits of niter. Shake well and pour the solution into colored glass bottles; allow to stand twenty-four hours before using. Bottles should be labeled POISON.
This solution is one of the best for the fast-method bluing. It only takes about an hour to complete, and results in a fine, extremely durable, blue finish if directions are carefully followed.
After all the parts to be blued are well polished, wash them thoroughly, preferably with a non-flammable solvent. Place them in the first tank which contains at least three inches of water and a proper amount of the tri-sodium phosphate (one cup to 2Vz gallons of water). Bring this solution to a boil, then immerse the parts in it, and allow them to boil for fifteen minutes. Any traces of oil or grease will be removed by this step. They are next rinsed in tap water, and placed in tank number two containing lime water (one ounce to two gallons). Boil again.
Following the completion of the first two steps, pour three or four inches of distilled water into tank number three. Again, if distilled water is not used in the last tank, the final blue finish will likely be streaked and discolored.
Procure a heavy glass pint jar with a large mouth, and wrap a heavy wire around its top. Use this wire to fasten the jar in one corner of the third tank allowing it to rest on the tank's bottom. Pour enough of the bluing solution into the jar to fill it half-way. Make certain that no water gets into the solution.
But before you boil the water and jar of bluing solution in tank number three, three things are needed: a swab, 00 to 000 steel wool or a fine carding brush, and a rack to hold the barrel by its two end plugs. Make the swab by tying a gauze bandage into a slit cut into the end of a dowel. The rack can be bent from heavy wire, or made by cutting appropriate notches into two wood blocks.
Boil the water in the third tank. Place the parts to be blued in the boiling water, and let them remain for about five minutes. Remove one part, and use the swab to apply an even coat of bluing solution to it, using lengthwise strokes. Keep the swab in the bluing jar until it is used again. If bluing the barrel, place it in the rack before applying any solution.
Once the heat from the part has completely dried the solution on it, return it to the boiling water for four to five minutes. Remove, and brush or card off the coating of rust which has formed with the steel wool or fine carding brush.
Work as rapidly as possible both in applying the solution and removing the rust, and keep in mind that the bluing works far more effectively on heated steel. If very much heat is lost while removing the rust, place the part back in the boiling water for a few minutes before applying another coat.
The best way to handle the bluing of a small part involves coating its surface as soon as it is dry, then placing it back in the tank for a few minutes. Remove, and card the rust off. Put the part back in the boiling water, remove, and apply another coat of solution.
Repeat the application process six or seven times. Some steels may require as many as ten applications of the blue. Generally, the blue-black color of the part will be as dark as it can get after the seventh coating.
Remove the rust from the last coat, and rub it first with 0000 steel wool, then with clean cotton cloth. Boil the part one last time. Remove, and coat it with light oil while still warm. This oil terminates any further reaction between the solution and the steel. After a few minutes, remove the oil, and rub a mixture of beeswax and turpentine into the part's blued surface. Take out the wooden plugs from the barrel, wipe the bore clean, and apply a light coating of oil to it.
1900 cc distilled water 180 cc tincture of ferric chloride 180 cc sweet spirits of niter 30 cc nitric acid 800 gr corrosive sublimate 400 gr copper sulphate
Mix in the order given and place in colored bottles. Label POISON. Let stand for at least 72 hours before using.
This is a slow rust process which requires about ten days to produce a proper finish. When properly applied, it will outwear just about any other type of finish.
Prepare the handgun's parts for bluing by polishing and degreasing, as previously described. Repeat the processes for tanks one and two, as outlined under "Fast Process." Boil distilled water in tank number three, along with the pint jar half-full of bluing solution. Place the parts to be blued in the boiling water for five minutes. Remove, and use a clean swab to coat the part with solution. Allow it to stand between eight and ten hours before carding off the rust with steel wool or a wire brush. Then boil it in tank three for five minutes, to neutralize any remaining chemicals from the previous coat. Remove the part, and allow it to cool a bit. Swab on another coat of the solution.
Repeat this operation on each part twice a day for nine or ten days. Provided that you followed the directions completely and carefully, used distilled water, polished the parts meticulously, and paid strict attention to the degreasing process, you will have one of the finest blue jobs that it is possible to produce.
If there is not sufficient humidity for a coat of rust to form in the given time, make a box to completely enclose the work and place a pan of warm water in the bottom of it. The box will usually increase the humidity enough to allow the coating of rust to form adequately.
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