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pins.

After the male die is pressed completely into the female die, the front and both sides of the magazine will be formed. Remove the guide pins. To form the back of the magazine body, the flaps of sheet metal left projecting above the female die must be folded over and fastened together. As shown, another three-piece die is assembled to fit over the sides of the female die. After that die is in place, swage the flaps flat against the top of the male die, and remove the male die by pushing it out of the magazine. The back is fastened together by soldering, riveting, or brazing. My own were silver soldered. The tabs for the guide pin holes are then cut off, and the lips at the top of the clip bent inward.

Cut a magazine floor-plate to shape from 1/8 inch stock. Make it long enough to extend past the front of the grip frame when it is in place. Round the plate's front edge to the same radius as the front of the magazine, and fasten in place by silver soldering or riveting. Do not use soft solder here! I also suggest fastening the floor plate with three 1/16 inch pins inserted in holes drilled thorugh both magazine body and floor plate and riveted in place.

Build the .22 and .32 magazines to the same external dimensions as the .380 clip, thereby insuring that they interchange in the frame. Their inside widths should be reduced to .360 inch for the .32 and .250 inch for the .22. The easiest way to do this in the home workshop is to solder (sweat) or glue (epoxy) a spacer to the inner wall on each side to reduce its inside width to the proper dimensions. A template of the correct shape is included in the drawings. Also note that the lips at the top of the second two magazines must be left slightly longer so that when bent inward they will retain the smaller cartridges.

"Followers" are made by the same procedure for all three calibers, the only difference being the width and the size of the radius at the front. Make these from sheet stock about 1/16 inch thick and just narrow enough to slide freely between the walls of the magazine body.

The angle formed by the tail which is bent down is important here. If it is angled too much, the nose of the last cartridge may not ride high enough to strip freely from the magazine. If angled too little, the cartridge's casehead may not ride high enough to be caught by the breech block and fed into the chamber.

Critical as well to proper feeding is the angle at which the magazine lips are bent. It maybe necessary to re-bend these somewhat to make your particular gun feed cartridges dependably.

After this step, you will need to wind a lozenge-shaped magazine spring. Obtain some three foot lengths of music wire from a store that sells model airplane supplies. Each three foot piece is slightly more than enough for one spring. Try to get the 20 gauge diameter wire which is supposed to measure .0348 inch or just about .035

Obtaining or building a durable and reliable magazine Is the first step towards completion of your pistol. Depleted here Is the magazine, the magazine follower, and the magazine spring, which fits between the follower and the magazine floor plate.

.270

MAGAZINE FLOOR PLATE

.630"

MANDREL TO WIND MAGAZINE SPRING

Approx. 6

.035 Music wire

MAGAZINE FOLLOWER

MAGAZINE SPRING

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