should be left slightly undersize until final assembly, at which time both this opening and the latch are fitted to hold the lever firmly against the lower trigger guard.
The hammer, trigger, and sear are fabricated to the sizes and shapes shown in the drawings, using the same methods described for the other gun. If a wide target-type hammer spur is desired, leave the spur thicker and heat and forge it wider. Bend the trigger bar to shape as shown and drill it for the pins that fasten it to the trigger and sear. Use 1/16 inch pins to hold the bar in place.
Make a hanger from 1/2 inch flat stock to slip into the slot in the lower part of the frame upright. This hanger serves as a hammer spring guide and pivot point for the lower end of the lever, and the stock retaining bolt also threads into it. Cut it to the shape shown and cut the slot for the lever. Drill the hole for the stock bolt with a No. 3 drill and tap for 1/4 inch * 28. Use a machine screw of this thread to hold the grip or stock in place. Drill a 3/16 inch hole as shown for a lever pivot pin and another from the upper side at the extreme rear for the hammer strut to fit through.
The combination hammer strut and spring guide is made as shown from 1/8 inch flat stock. A suitable coil spring for the hammer spring is now needed. It must be big enough inside to clear the hammer strut and at least 1 % inches long. Start with a heavier spring than is necessary, and cut and try it until suitable.
Construct a grip retainer plate as shown from 1/4 inch flat stock. Drill the hole and counterbore it for the screw head.
Another hanger is made, which is silver-soldered to the upper rear side of the tubular frame upright. The sear mounts in this hanger since the frame doesn't extend downward far enough to permit pinning it to the frame. Slot a block and drill for the sear pivot pin, radius the solid end to the same contour as the frame upright, and silver-solder it in the location shown.
There are a number of commercial rear sights available that could be used if you so desire, or a sight similar to the one shown for the semi-automatic can be made and used. In the event that a fully adjustable rear sight is required but is not obtainable, drawings and dimensions are included for building such a sight.
The grip is a one piece design. Begin it by boring a hole lengthwise through a hardwood grip blank to allow it to slip over the frame upright. Clearance must be cut to the front and rear of the hole for the hammer spring, trigger guard, and other projections. When it will slip fully in place, inlet the retainer plate into the bottom and bolt it in place. The grip's exterior is then cut to the shape shown, or whatever shape is preferred, and sanded, finished, and checkered as described for the other gun.
A forearm is also made from the hardwood as shown. With the forearm's rear end flush against the forward end
3/16" link pin holes
Recess for hammer strut made with 3/16" drill
Recess for hammer strut made with 3/16" drill
3/16" Dia. Uever8lot
1/4 x 28 thread
of the frame, inlet it until the barrel rests at half-depth. The forward end of the trigger guard is also inletted into the forearm's bottom side at the rear. Finish by shaping, sanding, sealing and checkering.
Final assembly of the single-shot pistol is begun by screwing the barrel and the frame upright into the frame.
Pin the upper end of the link to the breech block and slip it into the frame. The extractor is next placed in position and fastened in place. Pin the lower end of the lever to the hanger and install it in the frame upright. The lower end of the link is then fastened to the lever.
Mount the trigger and spring in the frame and install the trigger guard, after which the sear is pinned in place and the trigger bar installed, connecting the trigger and sear. Slip the spring over the lower end of the hammer strut and insert the end of the strut into the guide hole, and fasten the hammer in place. Install the grip by slipping it over the frame upright, mounting the retainer in the bottom of the grip, and bolting it in place. Mount the forearm by removing the front trigger guard screw, slipping the forearm in place, and replacing the screw.
Following assembly, the gun is ready to be test fired. As described for the other gun, precautions must be taken to prevent injury during the actual test firing.
Examine the first fired case carefully for signs of splitting, cracking, and stretching. Check the firing pin indention, and compare the fired case to an unfired one.
Make sure the dimensions did not change significantly. If they did not, the gun can be sighted in and test fired further, both for accuracy and functioning. Any further refinements are then made as necessary.
Once this is done, disassemble the gun, and follow the heat treating and bluing procedures for its respective components outlined in Chapters Nine and Ten.
Please remember, as I stated at the beginning of the book, that it is illegal to make or own such weapons as these unless certain government regulations and conditions are complied with. Also keep in mind that since I have no control over the materials, heat treatment, or quality of workmanship that you may put into these guns, I cannot accept any responsibility for the safety of your gun. I can only state that if the guns are made of quality materials, heat treated properly, and the given dimensions adhered to, that a safe, accurate, proper-functioning pistol can be produced in your home workshop.
Remember, I can only guarantee the safety of the guns when I do all the gunsmithing personally.
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