Right side view of the hammer. The center of the lower rear portion is relieved. This allows the nose of the hammer strut to contact the pivot pin fitted through the hammer's rear width (see diagram).

Left side view of the hammer. Two hammer strut pivot pin holes were drilled and tried until the hammer worked satisfactorily. Pivot pin is In place In top rear hole.

Close-up view of the bottom of the sear, with spring In place. The trigger-bar will contact the sear's lower left leg (or extension) when the pistol Is finally assembled.

Top view of the sear. Note the shape of the sear leg that will contact the trigger bar.

improve its appearance and to reduce its weight.

A .100 inch wide area is cleared from the hammer's lower rear center portion, to accept the nose of the hammer strut (see dia.). Drill a 1/16 inch holeas indicated for the pivot pin that fits into the trough in the hammer strut's nose.

Particular care should be taken to insure that the lower hammer notch (the full-cock notch) is stoned flat and square, and is at the correct angle.

The upper or half-cock notch is grooved as shown. This extra groove allows the sear nose to engage deeply and positively. It serves as an additional safety, although my opinion is that such a weapon should either be carried with the hammer down, or at full cock with the safety engaged.

The trigger is made in almost the same manner as the hammer. Drill its axis pin hole and trigger bar hole just above it in the same section of steel. Use the trigger template to trace its design, using the holes again for register points. Although it is possible to form the curve in the trigger by grinding and filing, it is much easier to cut it out straight, and then bend it to shape. Before the bend is made, the face of the trigger can be checkered. This is accomplished much more easily before the trigger is curved. The bending may deform the checkering slightly, so it may be necessary to "point" the checkering afterwards. Or you can groove the trigger longitudinally after bending, which is easier and no less functional.

Drill a hole part way through the front leg of the trigger from its bottom side with a 3/16 inch drill. A small coil spring fits in this hole. The spring must fit without binding, and be long enough to positively return the trigger to its forward position. The exposed end of the spring bears against the frame. Again, start with this spring left longer than necessary, then cut off a coil at a time, trying it until it works satisfactorily. Remember the stiffness of this spring directly affects the pistol's trigger pull.

Make the sear from the same piece of annealed steel as the hammer and trigger. Cut it to the proper width first, leaving an extension as shown on its upper right hand side. The hole for its axis pin is drilled from one side, using a No. 31 drill followed by a 1/8 inch drill. A 3/16 inch hole for the sear spring is drilled part way through from the front. A small coil spring that just fits into this well is cut. Trim this sear spring until it forces the sear to engage with the hammer notches as the hammer is cocked. Be certain it is not too long, since this will increase trigger pull unnecessarily.

The upper edge of the sear is shaped as shown, both for safety and for smooth operation. It contacts the hammer notch, and must be absolutely flat and as smooth as possible. The rear edge of the extension on the sear's right side contacts the trigger bar, and must also be flat, square, and very smooth.

Smooth, flat surfaces on these parts are not easy to





Remove shaded portion for full automatic function



Groove with checkering file


Was this article helpful?

0 0

Post a comment