the Can Can
More proof positive about the impossibility of gun control, here is yet another silencerthat came from a prison mastermind. Is there any end to it? The Merry Mormon passed this design along, saying it was the collaborative work of Michel Mertz, an infamously coarse union man, and his associate, Q.). Win.
Obviously an improvised design, the Can Can is a combination of newspapers, corrugated cardboard, and metal washers. The finished product ranges from 6 to 8 inches long and is as thick as the maker rolls it.
Space three or four washers evenly along a dowel rod or pencil the size of your firearm's caliber. A normal-sized pencil works well for a .22; a carpenter's pencil or 5/8-inch dowel will work for a 9mm or .380. The washers form the inner structural framing for your Can Can.
Lay the washered dowel along a four- or five-page section of newspaper that's folded to a 6- to 8-inch length. Carefully attach a sleeve extension of corrugated cardboard to the end of the newspaper to act as a barrel mount. You can use parcel strapping tape to attach the cardboard to the newspaper.
Then carefully roll the paper/cardboard around the structural core. When you're finished, you should have several layers of newspaper, at least 1/2-inch thick, around the core. Use the strapping tape to secure it. Then circle this unit with a layer of corrugated cardboard to act as an outer tube.
Run strapping tape around the entire unit to secure it further. You need to glue or tape a circular piece of corrugated cardboard over the newspaper portion of the Can Can as a front end cap. You are now ready to mount the unit from the other end, i.e., the end with the cardboard sleeve.
First, remove the dowel/pencil and washers. You may have to pack additional cardboard or use washcloth material to securely mount the unit from the cardboard end to your firearm's barrel. The barrel should insert about 2 inches into the cardboard, then into the Can Can's body.
Secure the unit to your firearm with strapping or electrical tape. Before you fire the firearm, use the dowel rod to be certain that there is proper alignment between the gun's barrel and the silencer.
There you have it. And, just between us, when you lip read, be careful you don't get ink on your mouth.
Having a tool man as a friend greatly expedites the production of your new homemade silencer. As you've probably seen by now, building that silencer is a great deal like the comparison between sex and the game of bridge—you have to have a good partner or a good hand.
With that in mind, here is a home workshop special using parts found in every handy tool man's home. We start with the silencer's outer body, an empty grease gun cartridge, like the Binford Tools Mk 602, an 8" x 3" cylinder.
Remove the cartridge's ends and set aside. Locate a small plastic plant cage like the ladies of garden clubs use for their little posies and set that aside. Do the same thing with some steel wool or metal sponge.
Next, secure your rifle or pistol's barrel in a vise and drill two rows of six or seven 1/8-inch holes in alternating fashion on each side of the barrel (see Figure 13, p. 78). You will have drilled four rows in all that way to port the barrel.
Insert the plastic plant cage over the barrel as an improvised gas and heat chamber. The next step is to either wrap the metal sponge around the plant cage or stuff the steel wool in and around the cage, effectively covering the ported barrel.
By now, as a veteran can builder, you fully understand the why and where this design is heading. Now comes the tight fit tricky part. You need to insert the grease gun cartridge over the inner packing covering your firearm's barrel.
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