Avondale Estates. GA 30002
SHOOTERS EQUIPMENT COMPANY P.O. Box 517 Richland, SC 29675
SHOTGUN NEWS P.O. Box 669
Hastings, NE 68902-0669
SUPPRESS-ON P.O. Box 09161B Detroit, MI 48209
And now, gentle reader, it's time to give you the designs.
g'^ Porcine Popper
When she was about to terminate her last marriage to Bob Ray Grabbass, the famed feminist/anarchist Pamela Pisspig reportedly told him, "There are no guarantees in a relationship. If that's what you want, a long-term guarantee, then, go shack up with a Sears Diehard." I wonder what Pamela thinks of Bruce Willis.
Thanks to a referral from Hassan Farouk's North American business agent, I know what Ms. Pisspig's expertise is when it comes to silencer design. In a word, impressive. Pamela calls her own design "The Motorcycle Brake Tube" silencer.
Her construction steps are as follows. Purchase a standard slip-on gun barrel collar with 1/2-inch x 20 threads from one of the many such ads in that anarchist liberation publication Shotgun News.
Next, go to a people-friendly and tight-lipped machine shop and purchase a 6 1/2-inch piece of 13/16-inch inside diameter (ID) steel tubing. Have one end threaded for a removable cap. They should drill a centered 1/16-inch hole in this cap. But you will drill this hole out further to 15/64 inch.
Purchase a 1/2-inch x 20 NF machine nut at another location. File down the edges evenly until it slips snugly into the 13/16-inch tube. Weld it in place yourself or have a competent friend do it for you. The unit must be centered, and the weld must be airtight, obviously.
Bore of Tube 13/16" Tube Walls 1/8"
Bore of Tube 13/16" Tube Walls 1/8"
Threaded Cap with 1/16" Center Hole
Figure I. At last, an environmentally correct recyclement for previously owned motorcycle brake tubes. Like designer Pamela Pissplg, these units have a great body for silent, but deadly, discharge. Credit: Uncle Wally and Chiquita Bimbo.
Pamela Pisspig's Porcine Peashooter Popper
Using medium-grade sandpaper, polish a 4-inch piece of standard 1/2-inch plastic water pipe until it will slip easily into the 13/16-inch tube. Slide it to the bottom of the tube. You now have a nice plastic bushing to support your column of washers that will form the expansion and gas dissipation chamber.
You build this by sliding a 5/16-inch flat washer down against that plastic pipe bushing. Next, straighten a 1/2-inch lock washer by using pliers to "take out" the lock. Slip that down over the first washer. Then, place another 1/2-inch flat washer on top of that. Now, alternately using a 1/2-inch flat and a 1/2-inch straightened lock washer, fill the tube in front of the plastic bushing.
The final step is to screw that threaded end cap with the 15/64-inch centered hole onto the threaded end of the tube, and, as Ms. Pisspig would say, "You're ready to do what you gotta do." Why did she call this a Motorcycle Brake Silencer? You'll have to ask her that. Does this design work? Yes. It was tested at the Enemies of Land Rapists firing range in Crushed Testicle, Utah. It produced a sound reduction of 30 dB when tested by Dr. Adolf Goering, a former BATF inspector, under field conditions.
Meantime, a friend of mine tested a registered homemade one just like this design and cut the sound of his gunfire by 28 dB.
Cuban Audi's Caribe O
Reverend Gene met this Cubano dude in the joint, where all things large and small, legal and illegal, lethal and not, are possible. That's why the good Reverend knew you'd be interested in the quick-and-easy design that the Cuban con had built and used in some venue of incarceration over the years. In another chapter or two, I'll be showing you one of Rev Gene's own designs.
If he did it inside illegally, you can surely do it outside, and legally, as well. To replicate this design you need a lathe, a hand drill, and a soldering gun or small welding unit. You also need 5 inches of steam pipe, 6 inches of steel pipe about an inch more in diameter than the steam pipe, two pipe caps, and some steel wool.
First, you need to decide what gun this unit will be attached to and how, e.g., threading the barrel or using clamps, electrical tape, or compression fittings. The caliber of the firearm will determine the diameter of the hole you'll need to drill in the end cap to allow the passage of the bullet.
As this is a ported-barrel design, the next step is to drill 1/8-inch holes at about a 52-degree angle about 3/4 inch apart along the length of the steam pipe. You need to make four rows of them.
Then, wrap or pack steel wool around the ported pipe to a point that it will fit snugly inside the outer steel pipe. If you
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