Endcap Components

Knurled Rim 1-3/4" 00 x 3/32" Undercut 1-7/16" OD x 1/8" Undercut For Baffle Expansion Hale Threads

1-9/16" x 20 NC x 3/8" long Spacer - Aluminum Tubing 1-l/V 0D x I" 10 X 1/2" long Plastic Baffle

5/32" ID x l/V* thick x l-l/V'OD Aluminum Retaining Washer 1-l/V1 0D x 3/4" ID x l/l6"thick Indentation From Staking Punch (1 of 6)

by Clyde Barrow

This design for replaceable silencer endcaps was developed by Mitchell Uerbell, head of Military Armament Corp (HAC). The design resulted fro«r silencer research conducted during the Vietnam era.

The endcap contains two hard rubber baffles, a spacer and a retaining washer which is staked in place. The undersized holes in the baffles bet one enlarged and Ineffective after several hundred rounds. The unit Is then removed by hand and a fresh replacement Is installed. The worn caps can be discarded or may be returned to an arsenal for rebuilding ,

Replacement baffles can be rade from amber squeegee rubber, available from art supply shops and liritorlal suppliers.

These caps will fit tubing with the following specs: 1-3/4» 00-1-1/2" ID (1/8" wall) Threads-20 per inch HC - (thread depth 1/32") Available In .<»5, 9mm, or .330 sl2es, the caps are sold to anyone for $17.50 each or $150 per dozen plus UPS shipping, (you can mix sizes for a dozen.) Order from; Tim D. Blxler Firearms Co. Box US5, Gretna LA 70053 Specify: MAC Suppressor Wipe Assemblies and Include caliber desired when ordering.

Ringed Shotgun Slug

By Martin Kruse Photos by H.Kruse

8ock on page 27 of the Armorer an article appeared under the title "Special Purpose Shotgun Ammo." This article dealt with improvised techniques for modifying regular shells to perform specialized functions.

In discussing this with Clyde, he informed me that several readers had written him questioning the use, functlonabl1Ity, and safety of these loads. He wondered if I could shed any light on the use of any of them

Well, I havn't tried all of then but I have had a great deal of experience with the one designated in the article by the letter "D". This is an improvised slug made from a regular shot shell. This really is an old hillbilly trick. We call it "ringing a load" or "cutting a ringed load." Its use goes back to the time when the first brass based paper shells came out, and In some parts of the country It's been a pretty common practice ever since.

To make a ringed load, all you need is a shotshelI and a good sharp knife. Just cut through the shell at the wad column leaving only a narrow strip, maybe about 1/16 of an inch, of shell casing holding the two sections together. I've never bothered to heat seal the end of the shell casing so I guess It really isn't necessary, but you can if you want to. However, most of the time this Is used in a pinch, or as a survival measure and a soldering iron just isn't handy.

When a shell treated in this manner is fired, the entire shot load remains intact within the shel1 casing and wadcolumn, impacting the target as a single projectile. Fragmentation takes place during penetration.

For this reason, the ringed load does far more damage In many cases than a conventional rifled slug.

I've taken wild pig and several coyotes with them and I know guys in Alaska who've used them on moose and bear. They're a little too destructive for regular meat or hide hunting but they sure do the job in a pinch.

The explosive nature of their construction as well as the accuracy and performance of the ringed load makes this a good choice for defensive use. They should be one hell of a manstopper, and certainly

Sskki m m

"Ringing or cutting the shell for ringed load.

Sskki m m

"Ringing or cutting the shell for ringed load.

better than a birdshot load used in the conventional manner. What's more, their accuracy and shooting characteristics are such that you may choose the ringed load over the conventional rifled slug for many ant I-personnel applications.

Some time ago, In preparing an article for one of the more conventional gun magazines, I ran extensive tests comparing the accuracy and performance of the ringed loads and regular factory rifled slug loads.

Comparisons were made in 12,16, and 20 gauges through a wide range of barrel lengths and chokes. Tests were made for both ballistic performance (effect on the target) and accuracy of the the projectiles. In side by side comparisons, the ringed loads', performance was truly surprising. This 'field conversion' actually outshot the factory load.

The biggest plus I found for the ringed load was that they shoot much flatter than the rifled slug. The greatest difference occured when both types of projectiles were fired through full choked barrels of standard 28" length.

One reason for the great difference in the trajectories of the 2 loads is that the constriction at the end of the barrel has more slowing effect on the rifled lead slugs than on the slick hull casings. This is born out by the fact that both loads shoot flatter in more open-choked barrels, but the amount of difference was greater with the slugs.

The Remington factory chart for their 12 ga. rifled slugs gives a drop figure of 10.V' at 100 yds. Thi5 figure is established using a test barrel designed and choked specifically for rifled slugs.Firing these rifled slugs through several full-choked barrels, I got between 33 and 37" drop at 100 yds. Ringed loads fired from the same barrels dropped from 15 to 13" below the point of aim.

Both loads gave their best performance through special slug barrels, or riot guns. Barrels of this type were tried in lengths of 18, 20,22, and 24", with chokes of Imp. cyl. bore.

The 12 ga. slugs dropped an average of 12 " at 100 yds. Can acceptable amount of deviation between factory claims and actual performance.) The rinced loads came In with an average of 9" through the same guns at that distance.

No special slug guns were available for testing In 16 and 20ga., so all testing was done with regular field guns. They seemed to shoot a little flatter than the 12 ga, but the same descrepancy occurred between loads. The flatter trajectory means a decrease in necessary holdover. This reduces the possible error at unknown distances and greatly improves chances for a clean kill under field conditions.

in addition, the ringed loads showed considerably less lateral dispersion. Test groups were fired from a bench rest at 25, 50, and

POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND Volt 2 37

THE POOR MAN1 S ARMORER

Colored wires D Joined to forra one curcuit

The instructions and diagrams listed here will give you a control box capable of detonating 3 mines or bombs. Using your imagination, you can modify the design and make a switchboard holding a hundred or more buttons.

5TEP 5 ~ ASSEHBLY 1. Take 3 flashbulbs and attach a length of wire', color D, to one terminal on each bulb. Then take one length each of wire colors A, B I C and attach one of the colored wires to the remaining terminal. Follow the hookup diagram in Fig.5-Insert the bulbs into the explosive of your mine or bomb, 2s Slide the push buttons over the springs and glue the springs to the bent nails.

3. Solder the dangling ends of wire from the control panel to the contact points-

Rest the power pack on the rubber strip, and feed the wire (0) through the hole'.

5. Secure the control panel to the top of the box and feed wires A, B & C through the hole at the top right back of the box. There should be a space of about 1/8" separating the contact points on the push button from the copper strip on the «power pack.

Was this article helpful?

0 0

Post a comment