Body Tube and Buikheads :

G. Cut four slots V wide x 6¥' long in one end of the body tube. The tube should now slip over the wing assembly. The rear of the tube should extend beyond the rear of the wings, (see Fig.4)

H. Cut two 3 7/8" diameter disks (measure the ID of the body tube for exact size) out of the remaining V thick balsa sheet. Glue one disk into the front and one into the rear of the wing.assembly. Check to be sure the body tube will still slip over the wings before the disk's glue has dried. See Fig.5

Cut two V' wide rings from the other 3 7/8" tube. Split the rings and use tape to join them into one 7 3/4" long strip. Wrap this strip around the body tube and apply glue to the portion of the strip that overlaps itself, but not to any portion that touches the body tube. Remove thg completed collar from the tube. It will be used to hold the wings in place. J. Cut four one inch diameter circles in the rear Jisc as shown in Fig. 6.

K, Cut V off of the eight "D" motors (remove material from the end w/o the nozzle). The black powder grains should now be exposed. Glue these ends together to form four 5" long motors. Apply glue to the paper tube only, not to the black powder area. Wrap tape around the motors until they are almost 1" In diameter. They should be a snug fit in the holes of the rear of the wing assembly.

L. Place three or four layers of fireproof wadding lEstes) between the front bulkhead and each motor and glue motors in place.

Section Two - Guidance

The guidance system is comprised of a receiver, two servo units and a battery. (The battery will also be wired into the detonator system).Specific details will depend upon the size and type of servos you buy. A general outline of the system is shown in Fig. 7. The two control rods are at-tached to the servos, extend through the bulkhead and are hooked to two arms that extend from the dowel hinges on the trim tabs. Most servos have about 45 degrees of travel, and will turn the trim tabs about 23 degrees in either direction. This is more than enough to steer the missile in flight.

The control rods and arms can be purchased from radio control model companies or can be fabricated from brass sheet, nylon, etc. Mount the above components so that the body tube will slip over them.

Mounting tips are included with the servo/receiver set. The antenna for the receiver should be mounted on the front edge of one of the wings.

Section Three - Payload and Detonator

A. Form a 4" tall cone out of the 1/16" copper sheet and solder it together. The cone should slip into the body tube without resistance. Leave a 1/8" diameter hole at the point of the cone.

B. Cut 7V from the spare 3 7/8" diameter tube.Split this tube lengthwise and overlap the edges so that it will slip into the 16V long body tube. Apply glue to the overlap area, hold together with rubber bands, and set aside to dry. After the glue has set, glue the copper cone from Step A to this inner tube as shown in Fig. 8.

C. Cut a V thick balsa disc to slip into the rear of the inner tube from Step IS. Glue a blasting cap or improvised electric initiator to this disc.

D. Cut three or four h" x V x 3" balsa strips to Ee used to join the front bulkhead of the wing section and the disc from Step C. The strips should be glued into notches cut in the two discs. Placement will again depend upon the arangement of the radio components. Cut the four feet of bell wire in half and attach to battery and blasting cap as shown.

NOTE: For building and testing purposes, a small light bulb should be used in place of the blasting cap. Unhook one set of wires after testing. These wires are reconnected when it is time to arm the missile prior to use.

£. Use several shopping bags or a long piece of wrapping paper to make a tube about 7" long with walls about y thick. This tube should fit Into the inner tube and cone. Glue this tube in place.

NOTE: The purpose of this thick walled tube is to resist the force of the explosive and direct it toward the copper cone at the front. The cone melts and a narrow jet of flame is then directed to the target. This focused jet will burn through several inches of steel armor. This type of charge is known as a shaped charge and the principle behind it is called "The Wonroe Effect."

JF. Feed the two free ends of bell wire through the hole Th the copper cone. Pack the 7V tube/copper cone assembly with about two pounds of high explosive or potassium chlorate/vaseline filler. (See Improvised Munitions Handbook section for instructions on making this Improvised plastic explosive.) Glue the tube assembly to the disc on the front of the wing assembly. The copper cone should now be recessed about V from the front end of the 16H" body tube when the body tube 1s 1n place. The missile 1s now complete except for the nose cone assembly. The nose serves to streamline the missile 1n flight and also creates the correct "standoff" distance from the target.

Taped Wire Leads

\ X \ X 3" Strips to join front disc to bottom of payload casing.

Improvised Switch

G. Nosecone

Cut a 1" wide ring from the spare 3 7/8" diameter tube. Slit it and overlap the edges to make a ring that will fit into the body tube. Use the remainder of the 3 7/8" tube to make a cone that will fit into the ring. The cone should be about six inches tall with a one inch diameter hole at the point. Use tape and glue to assemble the cone and ring into one piece See Fig. 9..



V Rod

Impact Switch

Nosecone """

H. Cut an 8" long piece from each of the wires extending through the copper cone. Attach one wire to each terminal of the doorbell switch. Glue the switch into the front of the cone so the button Is exposed. If the switch is too large to allow the button to be exposed, it is necessary to glue a block of balsa to the button.

I_. Make a small cone that can be slipped over the nose to protect the switch. Use tape to hold the cone in place.

Launcher #2 Construction:

A. Cut pieces of electrical conduit to the dimensions shown, and weld or braze together. Bolts and nuts may also be used.

B. Braze or weld a nut, preferably a 2" long "tall" nut, to the Inside of the front joint. Bend a piece of threaded rod or a long carriage bolt as shown. Slip a piece of conduit between the nuts for a handle. The bottom of the threaded rod should be ground to a point to bite into hard surfaces. Braze or weld a large washer about 1" from the point to prevent the rod from sinking in soft or muddy ground. Two nuts may also be used to "jam" the washer in place. The optional blast shield can be made from any type of thin sheet metal. It 1s screwed or spot welded to the rear of the launcher. Screw the Estes "C" launch rail to the underside of the top arm of the launcher. A "bunji" strap or length of rubber tubing can be used to hold the missile 1n place for carrying.

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