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Thi9 Is what you see on TV!

But this Is closer to the trulh.

are: balloons, rubbers, baby bottle nipples, etc..These are stretched over the end of the barrel and taped in place. A small hole or "X1* is cut in the end. They expand to contain a portion of the propellent gases. These units may or may not hold up to repeated firing. The overall effect is sort of harassed but then half quiet is better than no quiet at all. Pillows, heavy coats, foam rubber, etc. can be wrapped around a firearm to reduce firing noise. Even with a excellent silencer, most autos need to be wrapped in something that will muffle the mechanical noise of operation.

THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND by Kurt Saxon contains plans for a silenced box with a handgun inside. Just reach inside and blast away.

Most Individually produced or "hand made" silencers soon meet a common fate. At some point the silencer loses proper alignment with Ihe barrel. The next round catches on a baffle and the entire interior of the unit- is destroyed. As a bonus, the tube is often launched 50 feet down range. You can imagine how embarrassing this Is to a young guy just starting out. The key then is aligning the tube with the bore, then everything else falls into place.

Alignment and mounting of the tube can be handled in several different ways, but one basic rule holds true for all of them. To assure constant alignment with the bore, the silencer tube must be supported by at least two points on the barrel.

The simplest method is to tape the barrel at two points to support the tube (see improvised silencer mount article). This method works well for a while and Is extremely accurate. If care is taken when wrapping the tape, the resulting unit will be no more than two tape thicknesses out of alignment. The one drawback to this system is a tendency for the tube to slowly crawl off the barrel, a little more with each successive shot. It is a good idea to hang on tight to this type of unit, always maintaining a constant rearward tension on the tube while firing.

Tubing

The two types, of metal tubing generally used in homemade^ silencer construction are thick walled aluminum tubing and thin walled brass drain pipe. Both are light, inexpensive, and available at most hardware and plumbing stores. The aluminum come9 in 6 foot lengths and seJIs for about $3.00 each. Brass drain pipe is sold in straight sections 12 inches long, both plain brass and chrome plated. These sections cost about $2.00 each.

Thin walled brass tubes are easily joined together with silver solder. Aluminum tubing can't be soldered but Is easily held together with screws because the wall thickness Is sufficient to hold threads. The holes can be drilled and tapped In the conventional manner or simply drilled with a hand drill and threaded with sell tapping machine screws.

The following are construction plans for two 22 caliber silencers. The first one uses brass tubing and is silver soldered together. The second is made from aluminum and is held together with machine screws. Both units are simple, trouble free and quite effective. These construction pro-ceedures can be easily modified for building silencers in larger calibers. A. Brass Tubing Silencer Materials needed >

1 piece Brass drain pipe (plain or chromed) 12 inches long, 1 1/4 inch diameter.

12 fender washers—1 3/16 Inch diameter.

1 piece 9/32 inch brass tubing-sold In 12 inch sections (8 Inches are needed).

9/32 inch drill bit and drill.

1/16 inch drill bit.

si Iver solder and propane torch hacksaw file or grinder

Step 1

Step

Grind .down all twelve washers until they will sfide into the tube. A file or bench grinder may be used. Take care that the washers remain round and that the hole is intheexaft 9gP|gr,_

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