The Arrow

spring* And a few other parts are added.

I am convinced that tbe new equipment also offers something better for target shootinx as well as flight shooting; however that remains to he worked out.

The Bow. Use lemonwood stave i in. thick, Iin. wide, 4 ft. long. (Experienced workers rnav use yew or osace orange.) Smooth the bac*. Draw center line as in Fig. 1. Leave ¿-in. section in center the full width and thickness of slave. Draw four Lines on back as shown and plane slave to shape. Turn stave edge up. lay out as in Fir 2; then work to lines wilh plane, spokeshave, and scraper. Cut temporary nocks with a rat-tail filei brace the bow with a strong temporary string, and pull it a few inches to see where there are any stiff sections. Work them down to the cross section shown hi Fig. 3 and continue testing until the two limbs bend in perfcct symmetry, inch for inch, beginning on each side of the handle section Bnd continuing to the end of each



A Wt with a pull of tklcty to forty povadi. The Handle alidea oa tfct barral tack of tha Urft spring


limb. Round the belly, but keep th« back perfectly flat. Sandpaper well.

Barrd. Bore a K-lfi. hole as In Fig. 1. Use a 30-in. length of H-ta. conduit pipe for barrel. Make bracket of 1/16-in. thick flat sted as In Fig. 4. Solder it to barrel 4 In. from one end. Make handle as in Fig. 3V sNp the eye over short end of barrel, add the spring, and solder a washer (Fig. 6) lo end of barrel. Drill a series of lA*in. holei through both sides or the pipe as indicated and cut a short slot

Tfca hew mfc«n tally drawn


A Wt with a pull of tklcty to forty povadi. The Handle alidea oa tfct barral tack of tha Urft spring with a thin* bladed chisel; then insert a hack saw blade and saw the entire slot as in Fig» 6, Round off sides of slot so string will nol be cut. Slip pipe through hote in bow, glue pipe inside the hole, and fasten bracket.

Spring Make two dips from brass or heavy tin (Fig. 8) to fit limbs of bow about 8 in. from tips a* in Fix. 7. Put loop of booster wire through hole in chp and insert pin or nail. Be sure both clips are the same distance from ends of limbs. Fasten a 1-in. section of.^-in. diameter coil spring In each hole in washer. Run ends of booster wires through the hooks of springs. PulJ wire taut and make fast so that when the bow is drawn, the springs will be stretched as in Fta. 9.

The site of springs given are Toe a bow of from 30 to 40-lb. pull, but the springs should be selected tu suit the puli.

Siringj Form clips (Fig. 8) for bow tips from tin or brass, solder the Joints, and place on bow so tha overlapped portion is toward the back. Glue on. The wire loop» may then be put on and the bow braced. (The bow may be given a coat of white shellac, rubbed down with steel wool, and finished with spar varnish before the dips and booster wire are made fast.) The size of the musk wire to be used as a string will vary according to the pull.

Arrowr Take a 4. In. piece of hollow umbrella rib and drill a small hole in the dosed side ft in. from one end as in Fig. 10. Bend and sharpen an eightpenny finishing nail, insert through hole, and solder. Make shaft of bamboo or very tough wood and insert in umbrella rib up to hole. Glue it In and slightly crimp the sadea of the rib. Taper the shaft gradually to the end.

Sh+oting. Drop arrow through the pipe so that the nock or hook will straddle the string. The nock should fit snugly on the string*



frei and which It I«

Fhra Dollar Boot Knife and Push Dagger

By Clyde Barrow

Boot Knife

Most boot knives cost between $35 and $100. An excellent 8 Inch boot knife (4 Iftch blade) can be made for about live dollars. The baais for the knife Is the Sykes-Fairbaln Commando Knife. A genuine S/F knife from England may be used, but they cost about $15, A well made copy of the knife, manufactured In Germany is available from American Colonial Armament: P.O. Box F, Chicago Ridge, Illinois 60415. The price is $4.95 plus shipping.

Drawing A shows the orginai configuration and B the finished boot knife. A simple way to shorten the blade Is to grind and reshape the blade. Although this method works, the resulting knife Is rather shoddy looking and hard to reaharpen.

A more desirable method Is to remove the handle and shorten the blade. from the rear, leaving the sharpened edges and point intact. The handle waa originally secured to the blade by peenlng (mushrooming) the end of the tang. To remove the handle Jt Is necessary to grind off the top 1 /8

FIGHTING KNIVES L to R [Push Dagger, Throwing Knife, Boet Knife, Gerber MK D Survival Knife.]

Using a bench or hand grinder, remove the material indicated with diagonal lines in drawing D. Continue to grind until the handle can be hammered back onto the tang. The excess tang protruding from the! handle is now hacksawed or ground off. The handle is secured In its new position by repeening the end of the tang with a center punch, it may also be epoxyed in place. Grind end of handle smooth and reblacken with firearm touch up bluing or black paint.

The handle Is solid steel and rather heavy. It la also Slippery when wet or bloody. The handle may be lightened by grinding the front and back fiat before reinstalling on the blade. A more secure grip Is obtained by wrapping the handle in wet linen twine. When the twine dries It will shrink tight to the handle. This wrapping should be seated with linseed oil to prevent It from becoming frayed and unraveled. About 12 feet of twine are used. The linen is very Strong and can be removed from the knife and used as fishing or snare line in an emergency. It would also make an excellent garrot if the need should, arise.

The knife may be carried in a sheath

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