a plastic container and stored in a cool dry place.

Another explosive powder which even surpasses photoflash powder is chlorate flashpowder. Chlorate flashpowder is much more powerful than photoflash powder and also much more sensative. The reason for Its increased strength is the use of potassium chlorate (a very powerful unstable oxidizing agent).The equipment needed for making chlorate flashpowder Is the same as for photof I ash powder with one minor exception. A flat metal pan and a hammer are used to powder the potassium chlorate as the friction from a mortar and pestle could cause an explosion. The chemicals required to manufacture chlorate powder are; potassium chlorate (KC103), sulphur (S), and powdered aluminum (Al). The ratio by weight of these chemicals is: one (1) part sulphur, one (1) part powdered aluminum, and two (2) parts potassium chlorate. Once again all chemicals should be finely powdered and thoroughly mixed for best results. Chlorate powder should be kept In a plastic container and stored In a cool dry place.

One other flashpowder Is a derivative of chlorate powder. This flashpowder Is manufactured in the same way as chlorate powder, however instead of using potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate is used. This may offer an alternative to survivalists as sodium chlorate can be obtained from Solidox(See The Survivor Vo1.2, issue #9).

Although I have just listed the basic flashpowders and their manufacture, there are several things that one should know before manufacturing them. To start with, the equipment meeded for producing these powders is very basic in nature. Really, the piece of equipment that needs to be purchased is the mortar and pestle, as it would be hard to improvise. The plastic containers can come from just about anywhere. For example, the plastic containers I found to work best were nothing more than plastic butter dishes.The balance that Is required can be makeshift just as long as it is reasonably accurate. The balance I used was constructed as such:

A notched wooden dowel is used for the main beam of the balance while a Vacu-vise and an Exacto knife are used as a base.Dixie cups can be used for containing the chemicals during weighing and fishing sinkers are used for weights. I have found this kind of balance to be very successful for the measuring purposes in this article.

One final note about manufactur ing these powders is the emphasis on safety, as it should be with any article on explosives production. Although these powders are not as sensitive as conventional explosives, there is always the chance of an accidental detonation. To lessen or eliminate this possibility, certain precautionary steps should be taken. A list of these steps is as follows;

Hi x flashpowder in no more than 3 ounce batches to lessen the explosive potential.

For chlorate powders, add a small amount of bicarbonate of soda to desensitize the chlorate powders.

Never mix or store powders near an open flame.

Keep the work area clean and wel1-organ 1 zed. 5_. Mix only enough powder for immediate use. Provided these steps are taken, the manufacture and use of flashpowders will be both safe and simple. ^


To those readers who've built Dan Moore's "Super Bazooka" on page 53 and have spent the past few months' free time by blasting away at trees and fenceposts in sessions of secret target practice, the question has probably arisen as to what to do with all those empty rocket engines. Fervent Survival-is ts needn't discard them as useless; because I have just the information you need to turn those little tubes into some of the best smoke 'n stink bombs available.

Start by examining your supply of spent engines: select those which havn't had their walls burnt thin and with their nozzles still intact. Open up the venturi in any of the clay nozzles which have been fused shut.

Place a piece of reliable fuse in the nozzle, use any length of delay you wish but have at least 1-1/2" inside the casing. Zeller's 3/32" cannon fuse works fine.Bend and tape the fuse over to the side of the engine, to keep It out of the way, and apply a square of tape over the fuse/nozzle junction, This will help keep the filler from leaking from the fuse end during manufacture-you can remove the tape when they're finished, though that's not essential.

I might point out here that it's a good Idea to simplify your work by setting up an "assembly line" and by performing each step on a number of casings at the same time.

Next, place either 3-4 scoops (use a .22 LR case as a measure) of Fuzee powder, the black Ignltor portion from the body of a railroad flare; or 3 to k paper match heads inside the inverted casing. If you use Fuzee, carefully tamp it down with an unsharpened pencil.

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