F

Barrel clearing appliances. A is the type of heavy, flat-ended rod necessary to drive an obstruction from a rifle bore. B is a Parker type shotgun bore polisher, made of leather washers with spacers between. This same type may be made up for use in rifle bores. C is a special type of short flute, three fluted drill for drilling lead bullets from a barrel. Its shaft should be practically full hore size. D is a wood screw, brazed to a steel shank, with cross handle on end so it can be screwed into pieces of cloth patches, etc., which may be lodged in the hore. E is the Cleveland broken screw extractor, a splendid item to use in removing cartridge cases which become stuck in rifle chambers or sizing dies. F is the conventional shotgun worm, made of steel, for use in picking out stuck cloth patches, etc.

If a cloth patch or a twist of cotton or tow is stuck in the barrel, oil the bore well from both ends with a good penetrating oil and allow it to stand for an hour or more. Using a steel rod with a flat end of nearly bore size, try to drive the obstruction in one direction with a heavy blow 011 the rod, using a heavy hammer. If it fails to move, try driving it from the opposite end. If it still will not move after two or three attempts in cach direction, braze or weld a sharp, long-pointed wood-screw onto a steel rod, making sure that the screw is true and central with the rod, and pick the obstruction out, a piece at a time, by twisting the screw into the material and then pulling on the rod, repeating until the obstruction is all picked out.

If a rag or cloth patch is stuck in a shotgun bore, oil it well with penetrating oil, allowing it to soak two or three hours, then heat the barrel slightly at the point where the obstruction is located, but do not heat it enough to make it change color if it is a single-barrel without rib. If the gun is a double-barrel or a single-barrel with rib, pour boiling water upon it where the rag is located. When the barrel is well warmed, use a wooden duwel-rod, close to bore size, and try to push the obstruction out. If it will not push, try tapping it a few light blows to start it. Do not use heavy blows on an obstruction in a shotgun bore or you may bulge the barrel. If the dowel-rod will not push the obstruction out, it must be picked to pieces with a wood-screw on a rod or with a regular barrel-wormer. Never try to shoot an obstruction out of any gun barrel, either rifle, pistol, revolver or shotgun barrel or you may have a burst barrel.

If the neck breaks off of a cartridge case and lodges part-way up a rifle barrel, it can be removed with the square-ended steel rod of very nearly bore diameter.

A cartridge case lodged in the chamber of a rifle with the head broken from the case can usually be easily removed with a Cleveland broken-screw extractor. Numbers 4 and 5 will cover all cartridge sizes up to the Magnum .300. They are more effective than the regular broken shell extractors, as the twist you can give a broken case with these tools will nearly always loosen it readily. I have removed .30'06 cases, with the heads broken off, from a full-length resizing die by placing the die in a vise and giving a twist and a pull on the #5 broken-screw extractor, using only a 6" pair of combination pliers as a handle.

If the broken-screw extractor fails to remove a broken case from the chamber, clean the inside of the case so it is bright, then push a small cork up to the neck of the case from the rear end and run some very hot solder into the case. Have a well-tinned, steel rod ready and place this in the solder inside the case before the solder can cool, after it is cool the case can either be pulled from the chamber or a heavy steel rod placed in the bore from the muzzle will drive the broken case out.

Scored, grooved or badly-rusted rifle chambers will sometimes defy all types of pullers in attempting to remove a broken case and when this happens the only thing to do is to remove the barrel from the action and, using small chisels, cut the broken case out of the chamber. On a job of this kind a strong steel scriber can often be driven between the case and the chamber wall without scratching the chamber. After the case has been started away from the chamber wall at one point, small chisels made from needle files or dental chisels (with the point used next to the chamber wall slightly rounded to prevent scratching the chamber) can be used to cut the broken, case so that it can be removed.

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Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

Woodworking Tools and Installation Tips

There are a lot of things that either needs to be repaired, or put together when youre a homeowner. If youre a new homeowner, and have just gotten out of apartment style living, you might want to take this list with you to the hardware store. From remolding jobs to putting together furniture you can use these 5 power tools to get your stuff together. Dont forget too that youll need a few extra tools for other jobs around the house.

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