Fig. 4-14 ROTARY LOCK RELEASE LEVER
Rear, side and top views of rotary lock release lever. (Also see Figs. 4-1, 4-2 and 4-4.)
Fig. 4-15 ROTARY LOCK
Side and end views of rotary lock. (Also see Figs. 4-1, 4-2 and 4-4.)
Fig. 4-16 ROTARY LOCK SPRING
Side and end views of the rotary lock spring, plus a view showing the starting step in forming the spring. (Also see Figs. 4-1 and 4-2.)
Fig. 4-17 STOCK
This is a mid-section drawing of the slock used on our CH1COPKE R.F. rifle. The dotted lines show the areas to be routed or sawed out when making laminated stocks as explained in the text.
Instructions and Sequence of Operations for Making the F.D.H. CHICOPEE R.F. Action
As you may already have noticed if you have examined the drawings, we have not provided you with every specification or all dimensions on most of the parts. We have done this purposely. If, for example, in Fig. 4-10 we had supplied all of the dimensions needed to make the hammer drawing a true mechanical drawing, it would have covered an entire page and one look at it and you surely would have thrown up your hands and given up on the entire project. Making such a drawing would have been very difficult, but far less difficult than it would be for you to make the hammer according to those dimensions. Instead, what we have done is to give only the most critical dimensions and the exact sized drawing of the parts so that you can shape each part to your own liking. In the cutting out and making of many of the parts, such as the hammer, we suggest you put masking tape on the piece of steel from which the hammer is to be made, and using carbon paper trace the outline of the hammer on it, spot the hammer pin hole and drill it and then rough saw, file or machine the hammer to shape. Leave a little extra metal on it for the final fitting. If you do not like the shape of the spur on our hammer, then go ahead and shape it to your own fancy. Making the hammer and other parts in this way is far easier than making it according to a set of figures. And, if in the making of the part, you find that you have removed a bit more metal than our drawing or dimensions show, or you have a hole drilled a few thousandths off, it probably won't matter as you can compensate for it in the making and fitting of another part to it. For example, the hammer and trigger, once you understand the relationship of the sear and safety rebound notches, they do not have to be made exactly as shown in the drawings, as long as the sear notches and pivot holes are placed in the correct positions. The entire design of the CHICOPEE action is such that there are few vital specifications to follow.
Make this part from a piece of 1" diameter soft steel round stock. Trim to length and then drill or bore the barrel shank hole. A tap can be used to thread this part and 5/8 x 18 thread is ideal. The barrel should be threaded in a lathe setup. If the rifle is being made for the .22 Long Rifle cartridge, it is per-missable to omit the threads and have the barrel a snug slip fit into the receiver ring and held in place by a couple of cross pins or socket-head set screws. A diameter of 1/2 or 5/8" is adequate for a slip in fitting. Fit the barrel and turn the breech end flush with the receiver ring. With the barrel in place in the receiver ring make the cut (A) for the extractor. The barrel can now be removed. Then mill in the grooves and the flat on the receiver ring as shown. If you want the receiver ring octagonal in shape on top then this can be done next or it can be done after the receiver sides have been attached.
Use 1/8" thick cold-rolled flat stock, two identical pieces are required. Do not drill any holes in these parts at this time.
Use 3/16" or equivalent thickness cold-rolled flat stock and two identical pieces are required. Remove the scale surface from these parts as well as from the receiver sides. Most dimensions are not critical except that the surfaces (B) that form the top of the breech block extension and the face of the standing breech must be level and square to each other, and the rear surface (C) at not less of an angle than shown. Proceed as follows to make these parts. On a piece of thin cardboard make a carbon tracing of the breech block side from our drawing. Cut out your carbon tracing for a pattern to use to saw out two rough breech block sides from the steel stock. Using the pattern also spot and center-punch the hammer and hinge pin holes on one of the sawed out sides. Now clamp both sides together and drill an 11/64" hole through both sides at the hinge pin location and a 7/64" hole at the hammer pin location. These holes fitted with snug fitting pins will then be your guide holes for all the remaining operations on the breech block sides so that both will be identical. Mark each side in some manner to indicate right and left side and retain this position. Your next step is to machine or file the top of the extension and standing breech face level and square.
ASSEMBLING THE RECEIVER (see Figs. 4-5, 4-6)
Before attaching the receiver sides to the receiver ring it is recommended that you spot and drill the hinge pin hole in one of the sides. Do this by clamping one side and the receiver ring together on a board or metal plate with the front of the receiver ring flush with the front of the receiver side. In the sectional view drawing (Fig. 4-2) you will note that the stem of the extractor and the breech block face plate (7) fit between the breech block and the receiver ring. Therefore, to spot and drill the hinge pin hole accurately position pieces of metal of the thickness of these two parts, or better yet, the pieces of metal that you will use for these parts (1/8" for the face plate and 7/64" for the extractor stem) in place, clamp the breech block side in place and drill the hinge pin hole using the hole already in the breech block side as the guide. Now you are ready to assemble the receiver sides to the receiver ring. We recommend silver brazing using the silver-solder wire. You will have to figure out a way of holding the three parts together and aligned so that the brazing is made sure and easy. We do it by using three C-clamps and two spacers. The spacers must be the same width as the distance between the grooves in the receiver ring for the receiver sides, or .630-.635". Make them from a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" steel pipe. If you have already made the tang (33) then it can be used as a spacer. Place one spacer at the lower edge of the receiver below the receiver ring with a clamp to hold the receiver sides in proper place on the receiver ring. Use another clamp from the top of the receiver ring to the bottom of the receiver to hold the three parts together in that direction. Place the second spacer at the rear of the receiver and clamp it in place. Vise-grip welding clamps can be used instead of the C-clamps. When you are assured that whatever clamping arrangement you want to use will work, disassemble the parts, clean the areas where the silver-solder must go, spread on a thin even layer of flux, insert the pieces of silver solder wire into the holes in the receiver side as shown in Fig. 4-5, reassemble and then apply heat from an oxy-acetylene torch until the silver solder has flowed entirely throughout both joints. Be sure that the extractor cut in the receiver ring is to the rear. The tang must not be brazed in until the breech block has been assembled and fitted. Instead of silver brazing you can also use electric-arc welding, preferably the M.I.G. wire welding. In Fig. 4-6, showing the front view of the receiver, both sides of the receiver ring where it joins the receiver side has to be beveled off as well as the receiver side to provide a channel in which to lay a bead of weld.
THE EXTRACTOR (see Figs. 4-1, 4-2, 4-3, 4-4 & 4-9)
Use two pieces of mild steel silver brazed together. Make the stem or base from a piece of 7/64" thick steel 5/8" wide and about 2lA" long to be trimmed shorter later on. Make the extractor lip or hook from 1/8" thick stock. Start with a piece 1" long and 1/2" wide and silver braze it squarely on the end of the base. Then it is fitted by filing or machining to fit closely. This fitting can be done with the barrel in place or without it in place. In either case, after it is fitted so it slides back and forth without binding, the lip or hook must be filed or machined flush with the breech end of the receiver ring and barrel.
If you wish you can now chamber the barrel. First carefully file a shallow U-notch in the top of the extractor hook level with the bore or just enough to allow the entry of the chambering reamer pilot into the bore with the extractor in place. Then, using cutting oil on the finish chambering reamer, and turning it with a tap wrench, ream the chamber. The correct depth of the chamber is reached when you can chamber a cartridge in the chamber so that its head is flush, or .001" below the breech end. Later on after you have fitted the firing pin you must file a narrow groove down the center of the extractor face to prevent the firing pin from catching should it not retract.
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