Death, serious injury, and damage can result from the use of wrong ammunition, bore obstructions, powder overloads, or incorrect cartridge components. Always wear shooting glasses and hearing protectors.
IMPROPER AMMUNITION DESTROYS GUNS
AMMUNITION (CARTRIPGES) NOTICE
WE SPECIFICALLY DISCIAIM RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY WHATSOEVER OCCURRING IN CONNECTION WITH, OR AS THE RESULT OF. THE USE IN RIJCER REVOLVERS OF FAULTY. OR NONSTANDARD. OR "REMANUFACTURED" OR HANDLOADED (RELOADED) AMMUNITION. OR OF CARTRIDGES OTHER THAN THOSE FOR WHICH THE FIREARM WAS ORIGINALLY CHAMBERED.
CARRYING: Unlike "old model" single action revolvers, which should always he carried with the hammer down on an empty chamber to prevent accidental discharges caused by a blow to the hammer, the Ruger New Model Blackhawk & Bisley may be carried with all chambers loaded. When the hammer and trigger are fully forward at the same time, the transfer bar is lowered out of firing position and the hammer rests directly on the frame, not on the firing pin.
Any time the revolver is loaded, the hammer is cocked and the trigger is pulled and held to the rear, it will fire. Cocking the gun or pulling the trigger should only oe done when you arc ready to fire immediately.
NEVER DROP OR STRIKE ANY REVOLVER - COCKED OR UNCOCKED. CARRY AND HANDLE THE REVOLVER IN SUCH A MANNER THAT THE HAMMER WILL NOT BE STRUCK.
NEVER CARRY ANY REVOLVER WITH THE HAMMER COCKED.
TO LOAD AND FIRE
1. Do not load the revolver until you are ready to use it.
2. Note - The loading gate cannot be opened unless the hammer and trigger are fully forward, and the hammer cannot be cocked once the gate is opened.
3. Open the gate. This permits the cylinder to rotate.
4. Turn cylinder clockwise, by hand, and insert cartridges in chambers.
5. Align a chamber with the barrel and close the gate. The revolver is now in its normal carrying condition - hammer and trigger fully forward and transfer bar lowered out of firing position.
6. Cocking - To fire the revolver, the hammer must first by manually cocked. When cocking the hammer, have a firm hold on the grip with the shooting hand, and DO NOT TOUCH THE TRIGGER WHILE COCKING THE RAMMER. TOUCH THE TRIGGER ONLY WHEN YOU ARF. READY TO FIRE. With the fore portion of your thumb firmly on the hammer spur, draw the hammer fully to the rear until it stops. Then permit the hammer to move forward (it will only move slightly) until the trigger engages in the hammer at full cock.
7. Firing - Once the hammer has been cocked, a light pressure on the trigger will disengage the trigger from the hammer. The hammer will fall forward striking the transfer bar and the revolver will fire.
A CAUTION: The recoil of any centerfire caliber causes the muzzle of the gun to flip upward with substantial force. The shooter need not be apprehensive, but be prepared. Keep a firm grip on the revolver and hold it away from your face when firing.
8. After firing, the hammer will remain down. To fire subsequent shots, fully release the trigger and repeat steps 6 & 7 above for each shot
When firing any revolver, be sure all persons arc a sale distance to the rear of tlk sl>OOter. When fired, all revolvers discharge gas and particles through the clearance gap between the cylinder and the rear of the barrel. These particles of lead, powder grains or lubricant are projected broadly sideway* at high speed arid thus can injure a person who is standing too close to the revolver. When firing any revolver, always be certain that nothing - including either of your hands - is in the path of the hot and particle« which are discharged from the front and .side* of the cylinder. When shooting, adequate eye protection is essential. Shooters and bv^tanders must wear shooting glasses. Hearing protection must also be worn. Exposure to shooting noise can damage hearing.
HOT GASES EXIT BARREL/CYLINDER GAP
DRY-PIRING: Going through the actions of cocking, aiming, and pulling the trigger of an unloaded gun is known as "Dry Firing." It can be useful to learn the "feel" of your revolver. Be certain the revolver is unloaded and that the gun is pointing in a safe direction even when practicing by dry-firing. The Ruger New Model revolvers can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or other components.
"FANNING": NEVER fan any revolver. Fanning is an unsafe way to fire a gun and it is abusive to the revolver mechanism.
TO 'UNCOCK' (DECOCK) THE REVOLVER
If your revolver is cocked, and you wish to let the hammer down to its forward position (against the frame), proceed as follows: USE EXTREME CARE WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DECOCK THE REVOLVER, AS THE THUMB SLIPPING DURING THIS PROCESS CAN RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL DISCHARGE IF THE TRIGGER IS HELD TO THE REAR
1. Make certain that the revolver is pointing in a safe direction (See Rule 2, Page 35).
2. Make certain both hands are dry and not impeded in any way-gloves, bandages, cold, etc.
3. Grasp the revolver (if right handed) so that the thumb and forefinger of your left hand are firmly holding the frame, forward of the trigger guard. Thus, your left hand is in full control of the revolver (See Figure a. Page 13).
4. Place your right thumb firmly on the hammer spur and, with your thumb securely in control of the hammer, squeeze the trigger only enough to permit the hammer to 'break free1 of the trigger. At that instant, IMMEDIATELY RELEASE THE TRIGGER and then slowly permit the hammer, STILL SECURE UNDER YOUR THUMB, to move fully forward to its resting position against the frame. NOTE: It is imperative that finger pressure be removed from the trigger just as soon as it is free of the hammer. Then, properly, the trigger and hammer will move towards their fully forward rest positions together (See Figure b, Page 13).
Practice this important gun handling skill with an unloaded revolver until you have developed the proper control and 'touch' to decock your revolver safely. The key to safe decocking is having the weight of the revolver controlled with one hand, while the thumb and forefinger of the 'shooting hand' control the hammer and trigger.
DECOCKING (UNCOCKING) THE REVOLVER
a. With the thumb controlling the hammer as shown above, (1) squeeze trigger to permit hammer to break free' (2).
b. When hammer is free. IMMEDIATELY release trigger (3). Then lower hammer slowly to its resting position completely down against frame (4).
TO REMOVE OR REPLACE CYLINDER
WARNING: Never attempt to remove or replace a loaded cylinder.
1. Open the gate. This lowers the cylinder latch into the frame.
2. Press base pin latch (on left side) and withdraw base pin.
To replace cylinder, simply reverse the above procedure. Holding the gun with the barrel pointed away from you and in a safe direction, rotate the cylinder 1/4 turns in a clockwise direction to ensure that pawl is correctly positioned on cylinder ratchet, before replacing base pin. Finally close the gate.
TO UNLOAD OR EJECT CARTRIDGE CASES
(Keep revolver pointed in a safe direction!)
If the hammer is cocked, it must first be decocked. (See instructions above.) Then:
1. Open the gate. This permits the cylinder to rotate.
2. Turn cylinder clockwise, by hand, to align a chamber with the ejector rod.
3. Push the ejector rod rearward, by means of the thumb-piece on its forward end. so that it slides through the chamber to push out the cartridge or fired case. Release spring-loaded ejector rod. Repeat until all chambers are empty.
4. Check to be certain that all cartridges have been removed, then close the gate.
CORRECT UNLOADING SEQUENCE
Do not eject unfired cartridges onto any surface where the cartridge primer might strike a solid object and discharge the cartridge.
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Never clean, lubricate, disassemble or work on a revolver while it is loaded. Never install or remove a loaded cylinder. A loaded cylinder can discharge if dropped or struck. Read instructions before disassembling gun.
UNLOAD BEFORE CLEANING
The user of a RlGER* YEW MODEL SIWLE ACTIO* revolver should carefully read all disassembly directions and study all the illustrations and the Parts List in this manual before attempting to take the gun apart. Know the names and location of the parts before removing any of them. Although the YEW MODEL revolver mechanism is composed of only a few parts, it is essential that the disassembly and reassembly operations be carried out with knowledge and care.
Only a few tools are required: A screwdriver or two to remove the grip panel and grip frame screws, and a drift punch to remove the hammer and trigger pivots (pins). A small plastic-faced hammer can be useful in drifting the trigger pivot out and in.
The tip of the screwdriver blade should perfectly fit the grip frame screw slots. A tip too large will scrape away metal, while too small a tip will damage the screw slots.
Before taking the gun apart, set up to do it properly. Cover the work surface with a soft cloth so that the gun finish (and sights) will not be damaged, and provide a tray into which the parts can be put as they are removed from the gun.
(Make Sure Revolver is Unloaded!)
1. Open the gate and rotate the cylinder a few times to be certain the revolver is unloaded. Leave the gate open.
2. Press in fully on the left side of the base pin latch, and while holding it in that position, withdraw the base pin. Remove the cylinder and close the gate. This is as far as you need to go for routine cleaning.
2. Draw hammer rearward to full cock position. Insert a short length (about D of nail or pin into the small hole at the lower end of the hammer strut. (The purpose of the pin is to confine the mainspring when the hammer is released.)
3. While maintaining thumb pressure on the hammer spur, squeeze the trigger and ease hammer down to full forward position.
4. Remove the five screws which fasten the grip frame to the cylinder frame.
5. Pull the grip frame rearward and downward to separate it from the cylinder frame. (If the grip frame does not readily separate from the cylinder frame, draw the hammer rearward a short distance.) Remove the mainspring assembly from the grip frame, but do not remove the small pin that is confining the mainspring. The mainspring assembly will later be reassembled into the frame as it is.
Do not lose' the pawl spring and plunger (located in a hole in the rear of the left side of the cylinder frame, just above the grip frame screw hole) or the cylinder latch spring and plunger (located in the hole above front of the trigger guard bo<v in the grip frame).
6. Remove the trigger pivot (pin) as follows: using a screwdriver as shown in Figure 1. p. 16. depress the gate detent spring so that the end of the spring which rests in one groove of the trigger pivot is free of the groove. Then, use a drift and hammer to push the pivot completely out of the frame.
A CAUTION: Press the screwdriver blade tip against the spring carefully and be ccrtain the blade does not slip off the spring and damage the frame or injure the person holding the gun.
7. Remove cylinder latch, gate detent spring, and gate.
8. Remove hammer pivot. Then remove the hammer/pawl assembly and the trigger/transfer bar assembly. (Note that the hammer is attached to the pawl and the transfer bar is attached to the trigger. See Figure 2).
The revolver is, at this stage, disassembled as far as it needs to be for major cleaning and maintenance. However, if it is necessary to go beyond the above steps, the following cautions and suggestions should be useful:
Ejector/Ejector Housing: Wrap one hand firmly around barrel and housing when loosening the screw. Remove screw1, then carefully lift housing (which contains compressed spring and ejector rod) away from the barrel.
Base Pin tatch/Nut and Spring: The nut must be held firmly (with jaw-protected pliers) while the latch is being unscrewed Don't lose the spring. When reassembling, be certain the nut and spring are on the left side of the frame. (See Parts Drawing).
Rear Sight: The rear sight can be removed from the frame by drifting out the pivot pin (MR05600) and removing the elevation screw (MR05902). Unless it is essential, the rear sight should not be removed because there is the risk of losing the very small elevation springs. If the sight is removed, when reassembling it is helpful to put a very tiny dab of lubricating gun grease in the recesses of the sight base. The grease will 'hold1 the springs upright when the sight is positioned on the frame as the rear sight pivot pin is being reinstalled.
1. .Assemble pawl to hammer and transfer bar to trigger as shown in Figure 2. Partially insert hammer/pawl assembly in its recess in the frame. Insert trigger/transfer bar assembly in its slot in the frame. Then simultaneously complete insertion of the two assemblies into the frame.
2. (Refer to Figure 1). Align hammer in frame and insert hammer pivot with the grooved end of the pivot on the gate side of the frame. (The long screw, XR01901, when also inserted on the gate side, will intersect the groove and lock the pivot in place. See step number 11, p. 18).
3. Replace cylinder latch and gate detent spring as shown in Figure 3. Note that the lug on the cylinder latch fits between the arms of the gate detent spring and that the end of one of the arms of the spring is formed at a 90 degree angle. The projection thus formed, is designed to fit through the square hole in the bottom of the frame and to ride on the cam surface of the gate pivot. Note also that this projection holds the loading gate back and in place.
4. (Refer to Figure 1, p. 16). Depress the upper arm of the gate detent spring with tip of screwdriver blade and install trigger pivot. Pivot should be inserted from the gate side of the frame. The non-grooved end of the pivot should be inserted first (It may be necessary to manipulate the trigger, the gate detent spring, and the cylinder latch to align them to receive the trigger pivot).
5. Insert the base pin, taking care to be certain the 'dished out* section of the base pin collar is adjacent to the bottom of the barrel. The base pin must be fully inserted and locked in position by the base pin latch. If the base pin is not fully inserted and locked, the transfer bar may catch under the firing pin when the hammer is being cocked.
6. (Refer to Figure 4, p. 18). Unhook the ends of the trigger spring (XR03700) from the grooved retaining pin on both sides of the grip frame.
7. Insert cylinder latch spring and plunger in hole in grip frame. (The spring goes in first so that the plunger is on top).
8. Insert pawl spring and plunger (plunger goes in the hole first) in the hole in the left side of the cylinder frame just above the left rear grip screw hole.
9. Install mainspring assembly in the grip frame. Be certain the strut is positioned properly. See the Parts Drawing for correct strut positioning.
10. (Refer to Figure 4. p. 18). Draw hammer to the rear slightly and place the grip frame loosely on the cylinder frame. Before pushing the grip frame forward to mate with the cylinder frame, be certain that:
(a) the cylinder latch plunger (XR07700) is positioned so that is will contact the bottom of the cylinder latch (rather than either side of the latch),
(b) the pawl spring is aligned to contact the left "ear' of the grip frame (and not be bent as the ear contacts it).
11. See Figure 4. and note the end of the trigger spring (the arrow marked "A"). This end of the spring must he depressed so that it slides under the rear portion of the trigger when the grip frame is forward. With all the above springs and plungers aligned, fully mate the grip frame and cylinder frame and install the five grip frame screws. Note that the long screw (XK01901) should go in the grip frame hole on the gate side (Figure 4-B> of the revolver.
12. Hook the two ends of the trigger spring over the pin (KXR06300) as shown in Figure 4-C.
13. Be certain the mainspring strut seat is correctly positioned on its step in the grip frame. Then, draw the hammer back to the full cock position and remove the small pin from the mainspring strut. Pull trigger and allow hammer to fall.
14. Open the gate, withdraw base pin and install the cylinder. Reinsert the base pin and be certain it is fully seated and locked in position.
15. Before loading cartridges into the chamber, cycle the revolver several times. Check to be sure that cylinder rotates and locks correctly, that trigger returns in a positive manner when released, and that loading gate opens and closes normally.
Always he certain the revolver is completely unloaded before cleaning. At regular intervals or when the revolver has been exposed to sand, water or other adverse conditions, disassemble, clean and oil it.
To clean the revolver after firing;
2. Clean the barrel from the muzzle by running a cleaning rod with a solvent coated patch through the bore several times. A bronze wire brush, of a size appropriate to the bore size, attached to the cleaning rod should then be pushed the full length of the bore several times.
3. Again swab the bore with a solvent coated patch. Then wipe the rod clean and, using a dry patch, swab the bore until it is clean.
4. Repeat the above procedure for each of the six chambers.
5. Run a lightly oiled patch through the bore and each chamber.
Some cartridges with lead bullets deposit metal fouling in the chamber throats, in the forcing cone of the barrel, and in the bore. If leading' is noted in your revolver, clean it out before it builds up and interferes with reliable functioning and accuracy. A special 'lead removing' cleaning tool (for bore and chambers) is available from gun stores.
The revolvers internal mechanism can be lubricated without disassembly. A few drops of light oil recommended as suitable for firearms, applied periodically about the various frame openings, will work its way into the mechanism parts. The exterior of the revolver should be cleaned with a solvent and then wiped with an oily cloth.
Do not keep a revolver in a leather, fabric or canvas holster when it is stored. These materials attract moisture, even though the holster may appear to be dry.
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