A four inch section of tubing, with an inside diameter that will accept a three-eighths inch bolt, should be a-ligned with the hole at the rear of the trigger housing. This tubing does not have to be very strong, since it is used mainly as a spacer and to reinforce the wooden pistol grip. Any material that will weld to the trigger housing may be used, including iron pipe. If these materials are not available, cut a four inch section from an old rifle barrel and drill a hole with a three-eighths inch drill. If a .375 inch or slightly larger reamer is accessible follow the drill with it. If not, it might be necessary to file the interior of the tubing until a three-eighths inch bolt enters freely.
The pistol grip may be made from any close grained hardwood such as walnut, wild cherry, maple, gum, and others. Pick a piece that is as straight grained as possible and try to stay away from brittle wood that will crack easily. The grip blank should measure at least one and three-fourths (1.750) inches by three inches by four and three-fourths (4.750) inches.
Drill a lengthwise hole through the grip blank, one and three-fourths inch from the front edge, centered in the width of the grip blank. The hole should be just big enough tç slip over the tubing, which you welded to the trigger housing in the process mentioned above. It is important that this hole be square with the top side, so take care to make it so.
Afte?.the hole is drilled, slip the grip blank over the tubing and push it as far as it will go. With it in place, the outline of any material to be removed may be marked with a pencil. Some of the wood will have to be removed from the top, to allow the grip to slip up over the sides of the trigger housing. This can be done by carefully marking the outline and by making parallel saw cuts to the required depth, as close together as possible. After which any remaining wood can be removed
Upper left: Trigger housing and grip-Knurled bar at extreme upper left is stock latch. Slot at Iron! engages in magazine housing.
Left: Slot partially engaged in magazine housing.
Above: Trigger group in position-When the bolt extending Irom bottom of grip is screwed home, assembly is locked lirmly together.
with rasps or files and a flat wood chisel. The top of the grip should fit closely against the bottom of the stock retainers.
The rear of the trigger guard is also inletted into the wood with a narrow wood chisel to allow the guard to fit properly.
If the metal parts are given a thin coating of lipstick and pushed as far as they will go into the wood, high spots or wood to be removed will be easily detected through traces of the lipstick on the wood. Work slowly removing only a little wood between each fitting of the metal parts until there remains as little gap between the wood and metal as possible.
A thick washer with a three-eighths inch hole should then be inletted into the bottom of the grip, on line with the hole in the tubing.
The outside of this pistol grip should now be shaped similar to the contour shown in the pictures and drawings, or until it feels comfortable in your hand. When shaped to suit you, sand it smooth, beginning with coarse gritt sandpaper, followed by progressively finer grits, and finished with 400 grit paper. After the sanding is completed, a stain or varnish may be added to suit your fancy. I suggest that you use a waterproof finish. If you have no special preference, try brushing on several coats of "Flecto Varithane." When the last
Side view of receiver-Trigger assembly and magazine in loreground
-ASBOt 1/8" TSICI
-ASBOt 1/8" TSICI
coat is thoroughly dry, sand back the grip nearly to the surface of the wood. Several coats of "Tru-oil" or "lin-speed" may then be added, making an extremely durable and waterproof finish.
After you are satisfied with the finish and after the trigger housing has been polished and colored (blued, painted, etc.), this wood grip should be firmly cemented to the metal. This may be done by giving the interior surfaces of the wood and the outside surface of the tubing section a liberal coating of epoxy cement and by pressing the parts together, with clamps or with your hands, until dry. Any surplus cement should be wiped off both metal and wood, simply to keep the job from looking sloppy. The washer should also be cemented into the bottom of the grip with the same epoxy cement.
Purchase a three-eighths inch by five inch N.F. machine bolt from an automotive parts store, or machinery supply house, to be used to attach the pistol grip to the receiver. This bolt should extend through the grip and thread into the nut that is welded to the receiver body. In addition to the hexagon head which a five-eighths inch wrench fits, a screwdriver slot should be sawed or filed across the head of the bolt, wide enough to accept a twenty-five cent piece. This will enable you to take it apart later, even if a wrench is not available. Better still, if the bottom plate of the maga zine or the end of one leg of the stock frame is shaped to - fit the screw slot, then no extra tools will be needed to take it apart. With the end cap removed from the receiver, tighten the trigger housing bolt and make sure the bolt does not protrude into the receiver.
If you can find a jack handle from the screw jack of standard Ford half-ton trucks, you will have an ideal piece of material to make your stock. One from a fairly late model is required, since the older trucks came with a jack handle that folded in the middle and had shorter pieces. For the last few years, however, they have tried to economize by making a long, one piece handle. This is the one you should be looking for.
A sectipn approximately thirty-six inches long will be necessary. It should be marked at the middle and bent into a "U" shape with the bottom of the "U" having a radius of three-eighths inch to one-half inch. It may betjent to shape freehand, but a neater job will result if it's heated to a bright red or orange color before bending to shape around a three-fourths inch to one-half inch diameter section of round stock.
About five inches up from the bottom of the "U," bend both legs downward ninety degrees. Again, a neater job will result if heat is applied first. The butt end, or the end that goes against your shoulder, should be slightly curved to fit your shoulder. Keep the legs
TELESCOPING METAL BUTT STUCK
housing parallel with a proper width to fit into the stock retaining sleeves.
A latch or lock to keep the extended stock in place is made from three-eighths inch flat stock to the shape shown in the drawing. It should be pinned in place after drilling a one-eighth inch hole through the trigger housing and the forward end of the latch. Drill a spring retaining well in the bottom side center, close to the back end, to accept a short length of coil spring. This will keep the latch engaged in a slot on each leg of the stock. These slots may be filed to shape after the exact location is determined on each leg. When the parts are assembled, note the location where the latch bears against the stock legs. This is where the slots should be made.
If it is possible to checker each end of this stock latch with a metal checkering file (and to deepen the checkering with a triangular needle file), not only will a neater looking job result, but the rough, no-slip surface will also make it easier to manipulate.
The wooden pistol grip may be checkered as shown in the pictures, left smooth, or otherwise roughed up by carving, stippling, etc., as you so desire.
Right side of gun. stock extended.
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